Winter 2000
General winery news:
Eventful Growing Season Delivers
By Tom Shelton
Uneventful is the weather descriptor winemakers hope for, and with minor exception (along with a not so minor earthquake), that is exactly how best to describe the 2000 vintage, at least up until the first week of October. Bud break occurred normally, following a cool, but not cold winter. Trace rainfall during bloom caused some concern for grape growers who benefited from the valuable experience gained during the spring of both 1996 and 1998. Very little shatter was reported and, predictably, the set was even and crop potential appeared closer to "normal" than the smaller 1998 and 1999 vintages.
The Growing Season
With the exception of a short-lived but blistering heat wave between June 12th and 14th, Napa Valley experienced a mild summer with cool evening temperatures. Slow, steady ripening ensued and with that came heightened expectations for flavor development and color. Rains forecast between August 30th and September 2nd caused some concern, but the light showers that did occur were of little consequence and in fact contributed to flavor development, especially in red grape varieties.
As of this writing, most white grapes and the lighter red grape varieties are in. Many vintners are awaiting further flavor development for Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the cooler districts such as Carneros and Stags Leap where ripening was interrupted by showers. Even more than the intermittent showers on October 10th and 11th, subsequent cloudy and cool conditions have significantly delayed the final days of harvest. A window of warm weather the third week of October provided welcome relief for patient growers.
On average, Napa Valley can expect 100 days between bloom and harvest. During the legendary 1997 vintage, however, the average "hang time" was greater than 110 days. For vintage 2000 we can also expect more than 110 days, indicating another long growing season with the potential for wonderful color and flavor extraction.
Damien Parker, vice-president of production, raises a bin of Chardonnay (top left) up to the press.
White Wines
The even, cool growing season has resulted in a higher than average crop size for Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and many white grape varieties. Craig Williams reports that wines contain remarkable flavor and excellent acids, and predicts white wine quality in 2000 may rival the great 1996.
Red Wines
Light showers at the end of August had the beneficial effect of slowing down ripening and promoting full flavor development. Notable is the fact that grape seed and skin maturity has occurred at lower sugar levels than in previous years. According to one winemaker, flavors have been developing at lower sugars than in other years, allowing us to make full-bodied wines at lower alcohol levels. Many winemakers are predicting that the 2000 vintage will rival, if not surpass, the stunning quality
of 1997.
Perhaps the only surprise was related to crop size. Based upon cluster counts, many vineyard managers and winemakers predicted a large crop. Berry size, however, was small and cluster weights much lighter than anticipated.
Even as we wait for the final loads of Cabernet Sauvignon to hit the fermenters, excitement
over the 2000 vintage is building. According to Craig Williams, fermentation aromas are an early indicator of superior wine quality. "There is no range of aroma that would suggest variable quality," he reports. "Everything is amazingly consistent, which suggests another very strong vintage."
Special Report:
Historically-rich Freestone near Sonoma
By Kathie Fowler
THEN . . .
The year is 1835. By 1849 the siren call of "Go West, young man" will bring tens of thousands into the Bay Area and Northern California foothills searching for gold. But up in western Sonoma County along the California coastline the Russians have already established an outpost (today known as Fort Ross), and General Vallejo has been dispatched by the
governor of Mexico to extend Mexico's frontier settlement in Sonoma County northward toward the Russians.
Vallejo invites three men - James McIntosh, James Dawson and James Black - to settle on the land known as Canada de Jonive at the town of Freestone. Except for the Russians, these three men are the first recorded settlers in the area.1 (Native American tribes, particularly the Southern Miwok, were known to inhabit western Sonoma County, yet there is little record of their presence in the 1800's.2)
Freestone was named in 1853 for a nearby public quarry of easily extracted sandstone and, like many frontier communities, was founded by smart, tough, determined, often eccentric characters. It is the latter trait that most often appears in the history books, and two anecdotes in particular crop up in Freestone's history. One is the reaction of James Dawson to James McIntosh's returning from Monterey with a grant deed for land that did not include Dawson's name. Furious, "he gave his partner a thrashing and with a cross-cut saw sawed the house in which they had been living in half. Later, he moved his half of the house to the site where it still stands today."3 The second involves one Mr. Hind, proprietor of the local hotel. Freestone was the terminus for the narrow-gauge North Pacific Railroad, and when the roadbed was laid down in Freestone in 1872-73, Mr. Hind decided to extend his booming hotel business by going out each night and burning down the railroad bridges that had been erected during the day. According to Fred Cook's Historic Legends of Sonoma County, "Mr. Hind's money-making scheme sent him to San Quentin."
What sets Freestone apart from similar frontier communities is that as the lumber industry dwindled and the railroad was abandoned, residents worked to protect the quaintness of the town and prevent it from falling into disuse and neglect.
In 1974, the Sonoma Co. Planning Dept. issued an extensive report recommending that Freestone be declared an "Historic District," and stating:
. . . AND NOW
It is the year 2000. In the April-June issue of Global Vintage Quarterly a headline reads:
In a newsletter published in the spring of 1999, Paul Hobbs, a Sonoma Coast grape grower, writes, "There aren't many places in the entire world that can grow great Pinot Noir - the most ornery and temperamental grape in existence. There's Burgundy, of course, and in California parts of Carneros, the Russian River area . . . and some areas further along the coast . . . that's about it. Not only does the thin skin of Pinot Noir shrivel in the sun and rot in the rain, seams of different soils can result in one row developing flat and vapid fruit while the next produces all the bright flavors it's capable of." According to Hobbs, "The rare potential of this land is that the right soil and a balanced climate come together."
In late 1998 the Phelps family, along with JPV management, purchased 55 plantable acres in Freestone, an area of rolling hills surrounded by stands of redwood. This historic property included O'Farrell Hill, where Jasper O'Farrell, state senator in 1849 and chief surveyor of San Francisco, had made his home.
One good thing led to another, and in September of this year escrow closed on a nearby piece of property locally known as Quail Hill Ranch. Craig Williams, JPV's winemaker, describes the parcel: "Sitting at an elevation of 500 feet, facing south above the fog line yet only eight miles from the ocean, with panoramic views of rolling hills, redwood forests and the Pacific, Quail Hill is one of the greatest vineyard sites I've ever seen."
He is clearly excited - and undaunted - by the challenges ahead of him, not the least of which is convincing local residents that JPV intends to be a worthy steward of this rare and special place. "Agriculture is reinventing itself in Sonoma County," Craig remarks. "Apples no longer work here - grapes do. I think that protecting natural resources while being able to work the land are completely compatible concepts. But I understand residents' concerns and welcome questions at anytime." [Craig or Bill Phelps can be contacted at 707-963-2745.]
To date, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have been planted at Freestone Flat, and Pinot Noir is scheduled for planting at the Quail Hill site next year. JPV employs sustainable agricultural practices in all phases of vineyard development. The forested areas of both sites will remain open, as will the lines of communication to the Freestone community.
1. Historic Legends of Sonoma County, pps. 47-48; edited by fred S. Cook, Volcano, CA; undated.
2. "Dirt Roads and Dusty Trails, a Bicentennial History of Bloomfield", Sonoma County, CA," pg. 8; Hannah M. Clayborn; Cleone Publ. Co., Santa Rosa, CA 1976. (1993 Ed.)
3. Historic Legends of Sonoma County
4. Bear Flag Country, pg. 63; Richard Paul Papp; Analecta Publishing, Forestville, CA 1996.
5. "Staff Report: Freestone," Sonoma County Planning Commission; November 21, 1974;
File #7287.
Hawaiian Punch may not come from Hawaii, but thanks to Assemblywoman Pat Wiggins, State Senator Wes Chesbro, and California Governor Gray Davis, beginning on January 1, 2001, wines using Napa appellation names as a brand reference will have to come from Napa County. Governor Davis' signature on state Senate Bill 1293 closes, for Napa County, a federal labeling loophole that permits the misuse of brand names that have geographic and viticultural significance.
The BATF (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms), which regulates wine labeling, addressed the issue of mis-descriptive brand names during the mid-eighties. Federal rule changes issued in 1986 prohibit the use of a geographic brand name when the wine in the bottle does not meet the minimum grape content requirement of the AVA (American Viticultural Area) or county or state appellation used in the brand name. For example, this means that the grapes used to make a new "Napa Caves" brand of wines would have to meet either the 75% grape content rule for Napa County or the more restrictive 85% grape content rule for the Napa Valley appellation.
A controversial loophole in this rule-making change was created when BATF elected to "grandfather" those brand names in use prior to 1986. That is, geographic brand names can continue to be used even if the wine isn't made from grapes grown in the area referred to in the brand.
The Napa Ridge label has been at the epicenter of this issue for more than a decade, but heightened awareness among Napa Valley Vintners came in 1994, when Bronco Wine Company purchased the Rutherford Vineyards and Rutherford Vintners trade names just one year after the Rutherford AVA was established by the BATF. Although the prior owners of those brands, the Skodas, had never made non-Napa Valley wine, Bronco was able to do so under the "grandfather" rule.
The fact that Napa, as an older grapegrowing area, has many pre-1986 geographic brand names which could be sold and then used on non-Napa wines prompted the Napa Valley Vintners Association to convene the Winegrower Appellation Committee (WAC) to study labeling issues for the purpose of protecting the integrity of the Napa Valley Appellation. The committee developed a proposal for new state legislation that would provide immediate relief from deceptive and predatory marketing practices.
During the course of the committee's work, two news items increased public awareness of the issues. In January of 1999, Napa County approved Bronco Wine Company's plans for a bottling facility in south Napa County which would be permitted to produce 18 million cases (more than double the entire production of the Napa Valley). In April of 2000, Beringer Wine Company announced the sale of the Napa Ridge label and inventory to Bronco Wine Company for a reported 42 million dollars.
Throughout the winter and spring of 2000, WAC committee members worked with The Wine Institute Public Policy Committee to construct a proposal for rule-making changes to be presented to the BATF. The process achieved several constructive suggestions, but consensus was not achieved over the controversial issues related to geographic brand names. It became clear to the Napa Valley Vintners Association that a district bill presented to the state legislature was the only viable option for protecting the integrity of the Napa Valley appellation. The Wine Institute demurred to the wishes of the Napa Valley members by allowing the bill to go forward without opposition.
The legislative battle that ensued in Sacramento was widely reported as a struggle between Bronco Wine Company and the Napa Valley Vintners Association. Unfortunately, such reporting widely misses the mark. From my perspective, the issue has always been about the integrity of an emerging American appellation system and Napa Valley's ability to effectively compete with labeling standards that are more clearly defined in European tradition and law. The passage of SB 1293 moves Napa closer to that goal.
"For more than a century, Napa County wines have been renowned for their quality," said Governor Davis. "This legislation will end consumer confusion and deceptive marketing, and protect the reputation of Napa Valley wines."
1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNON
A blend of 100% Napa Valley grapes: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and
2% Petite Verdot.
Grapes were harvested at an average 23.8° Brix, and aged 20 months in a combination of new and two-year-old French oak barrels before being blended and bottled in June, 2000.
Fortunately, after dealing with the formidable growing conditions of the 1998 vintage, success, through careful selection, was achieved. The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon is developing into a beautifully proportioned wine offering blackberry, roast coffee and chocolate aromas, and layered fruit flavors with supportive tannins that lead to a long, balanced finish.
1998 MERLOT
A blend of 92% Napa Valley Merlot and 8% Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
Grapes were harvested at an average 24.0° Brix, and aged 19 months in a combination of new and two-year-old French oak barrels before being blended and bottled in June, 2000.
Low crop yields in 1998 reduced our Merlot production to 2500 cases, and although the wine is in limited distribution it will be well worth seeking out. Aromas and flavors of spice and black cherry predominate, with an appealing balance and long, velvety finish. This ageworthy wine will bring enjoyment for many years.
1999 LOS CARNEROS CHARDONNAY
The 1999 growing season is generally considered one of the best of the decade and, in terms of stress levels, a winemaker's dream. Cool temperatures extended the harvest without threat of rain and allowed flavor development to proceed at a measured pace.
When the weather finally warmed in mid-July, temperatures stayed relatively consistent, with fewer heat spikes than in 1998. By harvest, grapes had achieved near-ideal sugar/acid levels.
Grapes were hand picked and whole cluster pressed to mitigate extraction of bitter phenolic compounds and reduce juice solids prior to fermentation. After 10 months of barrel age the wine was bottled in November, 2000. This Chardonnay is noteworthy for its pale color, exquisite balance, and aromas and flavors of pear, citrus and spice. It is a vintage that will last for many years to come.
The Pastiche Concept
Prior to establishing his winery in 1973, Joe Phelps developed a keen appreciation for the French region of Provence in France's Southern Rhône Valley, and noting the similarity in climate with California's Napa Valley, was intrigued by the idea of working with Rhône varietals. Today Phelps annually produces several of these varietals including Syrah,Viognier and a Chateauneuf-du-Pape style blend called Le Mistral.
In 1993 additional fruit from Le Mistral was made into "Pastiche," a medium-bodied red wine blend that is both approachable and affordable. The 1997 vintage provided a similar opportunity for a white wine comprised of Viognier, Marsanne and Chardonnay. The two wines have become so popular they have become part of the annual production.
1999 RED PASTICHE
Red Pastiche is a blend of 39% Grenache Rosé, 23% Mourvèdre, 11% Merlot, 11% Syrah and 9% Zinfandel, 5% Pinot Noir, 2% Alicante Bouschet.
Grapes were harvested at an average 24.5° Brix, fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged 10 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels before being blended and bottled in November, 2000.
Crafted in the style of a Côtes du Rhône blend, this versatile wine combines generous red, spicy fruit aromas with a soft, lingering finish of ripe berry flavors and is a perfect choice for barbecues, stews and spicy-styled dishes.
1999 WHITE PASTICHE
White Pastiche is a blend of 29% Chardonnay, 25% Scheurebe, 15% Riesling, 15% Semillon, 9% Marsanne, 5% Viognier and 2% Muscat.
Grapes were harvested at an average 24.0° Brix, with 30% of the blend barrel fermented and aged 8 months in French oak, and 70% fermented in stainless steel tanks and held 8 months in German oak ovals. The two lots were then blended and bottled in September, 2000.
Similar to an Alsatian white wine, this blend of seven different varieties offers layers of floral, pear and citrus aromas. A mouth-coating texture serves up similar flavors through the lingering finish. An excellent choice for poultry and seafood dishes.
Awards and Reviews: Comments from the Wine Spectator, Nov. 15, 2000
JAMES LAUBE'S TOP-SCORING CALIFORNIA CABERNETS & BLENDS
JOSEPH PHELPS Insignia
Napa Valley 1997 (96 harvest)
Superrich and seductive, its layers of currant, black cherry, chocolate and ginger turning smooth and polished, with a long, intricate aftertaste.
JOSEPH PHELPS Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, Backus Vineyards 1997 (96 harvest)
Rich, ripe, smooth and polished, with dense tiers of currant, mocha, black cherry, plum, spice and cedar flavors. Silky-smooth and chocolaty on the finish.
TOP PICKS FROM THIS ISSUE'S BUYING GUIDE
California [Syrah] keeps getting better and better, thanks to the varietal's advocates there such as Joseph Phelps, a Syrah pioneer whose Napa Valley 1997 is its best yet.
JOSEPH PHELPS Syrah
Napa Valley 1997 (94 harvest)
An exotic, rich and polished Rhône-style red from California, with layers of favor and a long, elegant finish. Highly Recommended.
NEW RELEASES
JOSEPH PHELPS Semillon Napa Valley
Delice du Semillon 1997, 375 ml (93 harvest)
Ultrarich and figlike, with spicy pear, honey, yeast, dough and butter flavors that turn seductive and rich on the finish. Drink now through 2997.
Personnel Corner:
Manuel Zaragoza Shoulders Supervisory
Juan Manuel Zaragoza has a lot on his plate. In 1998, he joined Joseph Phelps' vineyard team as supervisor of the new Sonoma County property at Freestone, where 55 acres were planted to vineyard. Currently, Manuel is overseeing the development of erosion control measures at Quail Hill and seems completely unfazed by the responsibility.
"I get along with everybody," he remarks -- "or at least I try to."
A lot has been accomplished under his supervision at both the Freestone and Quail Hill vineyards, with vines having been planted at Freestone this year, and planting scheduled for Quail Hill after the rains in the spring of 2001.
When asked what he likes most about the job, his answer is simple. "Everything," he laughs. "Even in winter. I love to work outside. I love the rain. Every day that it rained last year I went over to check drainage. This winter will be even more work because there's the new vineyard at Quail Hill."
Manuel Zaragoza in the Freestone Flat Vineyard
Manuel was born in Mexicali, Mexico in 1953, one of 8 children. He grew up helping his father pick cotton on weekends until his father moved to Mesa, Arizona in the mid-60's to work in the citrus groves. In 1967, Manuel's mother joined her husband, bringing with her Manuel, one other son, and one daughter. The rest of the family joined them in 1969, when they all moved to Napa and Mr. Zaragoza went to work first for Mondavi and later for Beringer. Manuel was 16 and began to learn vineyard work from his father. At 19, he went to work for Christian Bros., where he stayed for seven years until moving to Domaine Chandon. There he worked 21 years, holding the title of supervisor for the last 18. "I was in charge of 17 guys except dur-ing harvest, when the number went up to 48 or 50."
He notes that working for a sparkling wine facility is completely different than working for a still wine producer -- "Sparkling wine grapes are picked much sooner, at around 18° Brix. Still wine grapes stay on the vine longer and the vines require more care -- it's more complicated. I have a lot to learn."
He seems to be well on his way along the learning curve, and with his intelligence and enthusiasm has already proved a valuable asset to the vineyard and production arm of
the winery.
Manuel lives in Napa with his wife, Carmen, and two stepchildren, Yissel and Alex. He has four children from a previous marriage - Maria, Aida, Vicenta and Juan, Jr. - and five grandchildren.
Eventful Growing Season Delivers
September Earthquake, October Showers,
Extended Harvest
By Tom Shelton Uneventful is the weather descriptor winemakers hope for, and with minor exception (along with a not so minor earthquake), that is exactly how best to describe the 2000 vintage, at least up until the first week of October. Bud break occurred normally, following a cool, but not cold winter. Trace rainfall during bloom caused some concern for grape growers who benefited from the valuable experience gained during the spring of both 1996 and 1998. Very little shatter was reported and, predictably, the set was even and crop potential appeared closer to "normal" than the smaller 1998 and 1999 vintages.
The Growing Season
With the exception of a short-lived but blistering heat wave between June 12th and 14th, Napa Valley experienced a mild summer with cool evening temperatures. Slow, steady ripening ensued and with that came heightened expectations for flavor development and color. Rains forecast between August 30th and September 2nd caused some concern, but the light showers that did occur were of little consequence and in fact contributed to flavor development, especially in red grape varieties.
As of this writing, most white grapes and the lighter red grape varieties are in. Many vintners are awaiting further flavor development for Cabernet Sauvignon grown in the cooler districts such as Carneros and Stags Leap where ripening was interrupted by showers. Even more than the intermittent showers on October 10th and 11th, subsequent cloudy and cool conditions have significantly delayed the final days of harvest. A window of warm weather the third week of October provided welcome relief for patient growers.
On average, Napa Valley can expect 100 days between bloom and harvest. During the legendary 1997 vintage, however, the average "hang time" was greater than 110 days. For vintage 2000 we can also expect more than 110 days, indicating another long growing season with the potential for wonderful color and flavor extraction.
Damien Parker, vice-president of production, raises a bin of Chardonnay (top left) up to the press.
White Wines
The even, cool growing season has resulted in a higher than average crop size for Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and many white grape varieties. Craig Williams reports that wines contain remarkable flavor and excellent acids, and predicts white wine quality in 2000 may rival the great 1996.
Red Wines
Light showers at the end of August had the beneficial effect of slowing down ripening and promoting full flavor development. Notable is the fact that grape seed and skin maturity has occurred at lower sugar levels than in previous years. According to one winemaker, flavors have been developing at lower sugars than in other years, allowing us to make full-bodied wines at lower alcohol levels. Many winemakers are predicting that the 2000 vintage will rival, if not surpass, the stunning quality
of 1997.
Perhaps the only surprise was related to crop size. Based upon cluster counts, many vineyard managers and winemakers predicted a large crop. Berry size, however, was small and cluster weights much lighter than anticipated.
Even as we wait for the final loads of Cabernet Sauvignon to hit the fermenters, excitement
over the 2000 vintage is building. According to Craig Williams, fermentation aromas are an early indicator of superior wine quality. "There is no range of aroma that would suggest variable quality," he reports. "Everything is amazingly consistent, which suggests another very strong vintage."
Special Report:
Historically-rich Freestone near Sonoma
coast is new JPV Vineyard Locale
By Kathie Fowler The year is 1835. By 1849 the siren call of "Go West, young man" will bring tens of thousands into the Bay Area and Northern California foothills searching for gold. But up in western Sonoma County along the California coastline the Russians have already established an outpost (today known as Fort Ross), and General Vallejo has been dispatched by the
governor of Mexico to extend Mexico's frontier settlement in Sonoma County northward toward the Russians.
Vallejo invites three men - James McIntosh, James Dawson and James Black - to settle on the land known as Canada de Jonive at the town of Freestone. Except for the Russians, these three men are the first recorded settlers in the area.1 (Native American tribes, particularly the Southern Miwok, were known to inhabit western Sonoma County, yet there is little record of their presence in the 1800's.2)
Freestone was named in 1853 for a nearby public quarry of easily extracted sandstone and, like many frontier communities, was founded by smart, tough, determined, often eccentric characters. It is the latter trait that most often appears in the history books, and two anecdotes in particular crop up in Freestone's history. One is the reaction of James Dawson to James McIntosh's returning from Monterey with a grant deed for land that did not include Dawson's name. Furious, "he gave his partner a thrashing and with a cross-cut saw sawed the house in which they had been living in half. Later, he moved his half of the house to the site where it still stands today."3 The second involves one Mr. Hind, proprietor of the local hotel. Freestone was the terminus for the narrow-gauge North Pacific Railroad, and when the roadbed was laid down in Freestone in 1872-73, Mr. Hind decided to extend his booming hotel business by going out each night and burning down the railroad bridges that had been erected during the day. According to Fred Cook's Historic Legends of Sonoma County, "Mr. Hind's money-making scheme sent him to San Quentin."
After the railroad was finished Freestone became a trade center for the surrounding areas and a number of picturesque buildings were erected, many of which still stand today. Mr. Hind's hotel, a fine example of Greek Revival architecture, is almost 150 years old. In 1875, what began as the local grocery store evolved into a post office which, after being closed in the 1950's and '60s, was reopened in 1970 and established as a rural postal substation of Sebastopol. Today it still operates in what was the original general store.4 The 1887 schoolhouse takes pride of place perched on a knoll overlooking the beautiful little valley, and many charming homes from the period are still in evidence.
An 1893 Photo of the North Pacific Coast Railroad in Freestone. I.T. Ward's General Merchandise store (background) was built around 1872, with the
upper floor serving as a dance hall and local gathering place. Today, painted
a cheerful yellow, the building still operates as the general store and local
post office.
What sets Freestone apart from similar frontier communities is that as the lumber industry dwindled and the railroad was abandoned, residents worked to protect the quaintness of the town and prevent it from falling into disuse and neglect.
In 1974, the Sonoma Co. Planning Dept. issued an extensive report recommending that Freestone be declared an "Historic District," and stating:
"Freestone, 20 minutes from Santa Rosa on Bodega Highway, remains a 19th century community nestled in rolling wooded hills of western Sonoma County. Its residents, valuing this quality, are systematically restoring its homes and commercial buildings."Later in the report, the Planning Department again acknowledges the community's concerns:
"The historical importance of Freestone is perhaps not notable in the history of our state, but for its residents and other Sonoma County residents it is important as a living example of an unspoiled 19th century rural community."5Indeed, according to Historic Legends of Sonoma County (undated, but probably published in the 1950's), Freestone was considered "one of only four towns in the state left virtually untouched by 'progress'."
It is the year 2000. In the April-June issue of Global Vintage Quarterly a headline reads:
"Land Rush on the Sonoma Coast - Winemakers are Searching for Land Where Pinot Noir Grows Best."The article is by Jeff Cox who reports, "Very, very few places in the world have the sort of climate found in the [Sonoma Coast] region - a climate that seems perfectly suited to producing Pinot Noirs that challenge the supremacy of Burgundy itself."
In a newsletter published in the spring of 1999, Paul Hobbs, a Sonoma Coast grape grower, writes, "There aren't many places in the entire world that can grow great Pinot Noir - the most ornery and temperamental grape in existence. There's Burgundy, of course, and in California parts of Carneros, the Russian River area . . . and some areas further along the coast . . . that's about it. Not only does the thin skin of Pinot Noir shrivel in the sun and rot in the rain, seams of different soils can result in one row developing flat and vapid fruit while the next produces all the bright flavors it's capable of." According to Hobbs, "The rare potential of this land is that the right soil and a balanced climate come together."
In late 1998 the Phelps family, along with JPV management, purchased 55 plantable acres in Freestone, an area of rolling hills surrounded by stands of redwood. This historic property included O'Farrell Hill, where Jasper O'Farrell, state senator in 1849 and chief surveyor of San Francisco, had made his home.
One good thing led to another, and in September of this year escrow closed on a nearby piece of property locally known as Quail Hill Ranch. Craig Williams, JPV's winemaker, describes the parcel: "Sitting at an elevation of 500 feet, facing south above the fog line yet only eight miles from the ocean, with panoramic views of rolling hills, redwood forests and the Pacific, Quail Hill is one of the greatest vineyard sites I've ever seen."
He is clearly excited - and undaunted - by the challenges ahead of him, not the least of which is convincing local residents that JPV intends to be a worthy steward of this rare and special place. "Agriculture is reinventing itself in Sonoma County," Craig remarks. "Apples no longer work here - grapes do. I think that protecting natural resources while being able to work the land are completely compatible concepts. But I understand residents' concerns and welcome questions at anytime." [Craig or Bill Phelps can be contacted at 707-963-2745.]
To date, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay have been planted at Freestone Flat, and Pinot Noir is scheduled for planting at the Quail Hill site next year. JPV employs sustainable agricultural practices in all phases of vineyard development. The forested areas of both sites will remain open, as will the lines of communication to the Freestone community.
1. Historic Legends of Sonoma County, pps. 47-48; edited by fred S. Cook, Volcano, CA; undated.
2. "Dirt Roads and Dusty Trails, a Bicentennial History of Bloomfield", Sonoma County, CA," pg. 8; Hannah M. Clayborn; Cleone Publ. Co., Santa Rosa, CA 1976. (1993 Ed.)
3. Historic Legends of Sonoma County
4. Bear Flag Country, pg. 63; Richard Paul Papp; Analecta Publishing, Forestville, CA 1996.
5. "Staff Report: Freestone," Sonoma County Planning Commission; November 21, 1974;
File #7287.
Uncorked! by Tom Shelton
State Legislation Closes Loophole in Geographic Brand Name Labeling LawsHawaiian Punch may not come from Hawaii, but thanks to Assemblywoman Pat Wiggins, State Senator Wes Chesbro, and California Governor Gray Davis, beginning on January 1, 2001, wines using Napa appellation names as a brand reference will have to come from Napa County. Governor Davis' signature on state Senate Bill 1293 closes, for Napa County, a federal labeling loophole that permits the misuse of brand names that have geographic and viticultural significance.
The BATF (Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms), which regulates wine labeling, addressed the issue of mis-descriptive brand names during the mid-eighties. Federal rule changes issued in 1986 prohibit the use of a geographic brand name when the wine in the bottle does not meet the minimum grape content requirement of the AVA (American Viticultural Area) or county or state appellation used in the brand name. For example, this means that the grapes used to make a new "Napa Caves" brand of wines would have to meet either the 75% grape content rule for Napa County or the more restrictive 85% grape content rule for the Napa Valley appellation.
A controversial loophole in this rule-making change was created when BATF elected to "grandfather" those brand names in use prior to 1986. That is, geographic brand names can continue to be used even if the wine isn't made from grapes grown in the area referred to in the brand.
The Napa Ridge label has been at the epicenter of this issue for more than a decade, but heightened awareness among Napa Valley Vintners came in 1994, when Bronco Wine Company purchased the Rutherford Vineyards and Rutherford Vintners trade names just one year after the Rutherford AVA was established by the BATF. Although the prior owners of those brands, the Skodas, had never made non-Napa Valley wine, Bronco was able to do so under the "grandfather" rule.
The fact that Napa, as an older grapegrowing area, has many pre-1986 geographic brand names which could be sold and then used on non-Napa wines prompted the Napa Valley Vintners Association to convene the Winegrower Appellation Committee (WAC) to study labeling issues for the purpose of protecting the integrity of the Napa Valley Appellation. The committee developed a proposal for new state legislation that would provide immediate relief from deceptive and predatory marketing practices.
During the course of the committee's work, two news items increased public awareness of the issues. In January of 1999, Napa County approved Bronco Wine Company's plans for a bottling facility in south Napa County which would be permitted to produce 18 million cases (more than double the entire production of the Napa Valley). In April of 2000, Beringer Wine Company announced the sale of the Napa Ridge label and inventory to Bronco Wine Company for a reported 42 million dollars.
Throughout the winter and spring of 2000, WAC committee members worked with The Wine Institute Public Policy Committee to construct a proposal for rule-making changes to be presented to the BATF. The process achieved several constructive suggestions, but consensus was not achieved over the controversial issues related to geographic brand names. It became clear to the Napa Valley Vintners Association that a district bill presented to the state legislature was the only viable option for protecting the integrity of the Napa Valley appellation. The Wine Institute demurred to the wishes of the Napa Valley members by allowing the bill to go forward without opposition.
The legislative battle that ensued in Sacramento was widely reported as a struggle between Bronco Wine Company and the Napa Valley Vintners Association. Unfortunately, such reporting widely misses the mark. From my perspective, the issue has always been about the integrity of an emerging American appellation system and Napa Valley's ability to effectively compete with labeling standards that are more clearly defined in European tradition and law. The passage of SB 1293 moves Napa closer to that goal.
"For more than a century, Napa County wines have been renowned for their quality," said Governor Davis. "This legislation will end consumer confusion and deceptive marketing, and protect the reputation of Napa Valley wines."
New Releases:
The 1998 Growing Season
If the 1998 Harvest in California yields some sumptuous wines - as it now appears it will - much of the credit is due to modern viticultural ingenuity. As the last grapes came off the vines for "Harvest '98," California winemakers ... can look back on 1998 as a year of floods, torrential winter rains, a damp downright chilly Spring and Summer. About all that was missing were an earthquake and a hurricane.
James Laube, 12-31-98, The Wine Spectator
The 1999 Growing Season
Cool temperatures characterized much of the 1999 growing season, with a warming trend in mid-July allowing grapes to ripen and mature. While picking was two to three weeks behind normal and crop yields were down by 20-25% (due to poor set during spring), the harvest yielded picture-perfect slusters of small berries all evenly matured. It was an exceptional year for white varetals, similar to the 1994 and 1996 vintages.
Craig Williams, Winemaker, Joseph Phelps Vineyards
1998 CABERNET SAUVIGNON
A blend of 100% Napa Valley grapes: 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot and
2% Petite Verdot.
Grapes were harvested at an average 23.8° Brix, and aged 20 months in a combination of new and two-year-old French oak barrels before being blended and bottled in June, 2000.
Fortunately, after dealing with the formidable growing conditions of the 1998 vintage, success, through careful selection, was achieved. The 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon is developing into a beautifully proportioned wine offering blackberry, roast coffee and chocolate aromas, and layered fruit flavors with supportive tannins that lead to a long, balanced finish.
1998 MERLOT
A blend of 92% Napa Valley Merlot and 8% Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
Grapes were harvested at an average 24.0° Brix, and aged 19 months in a combination of new and two-year-old French oak barrels before being blended and bottled in June, 2000.
Low crop yields in 1998 reduced our Merlot production to 2500 cases, and although the wine is in limited distribution it will be well worth seeking out. Aromas and flavors of spice and black cherry predominate, with an appealing balance and long, velvety finish. This ageworthy wine will bring enjoyment for many years.
1999 LOS CARNEROS CHARDONNAY
The 1999 growing season is generally considered one of the best of the decade and, in terms of stress levels, a winemaker's dream. Cool temperatures extended the harvest without threat of rain and allowed flavor development to proceed at a measured pace.
When the weather finally warmed in mid-July, temperatures stayed relatively consistent, with fewer heat spikes than in 1998. By harvest, grapes had achieved near-ideal sugar/acid levels.
Grapes were hand picked and whole cluster pressed to mitigate extraction of bitter phenolic compounds and reduce juice solids prior to fermentation. After 10 months of barrel age the wine was bottled in November, 2000. This Chardonnay is noteworthy for its pale color, exquisite balance, and aromas and flavors of pear, citrus and spice. It is a vintage that will last for many years to come.
The Pastiche Concept
Prior to establishing his winery in 1973, Joe Phelps developed a keen appreciation for the French region of Provence in France's Southern Rhône Valley, and noting the similarity in climate with California's Napa Valley, was intrigued by the idea of working with Rhône varietals. Today Phelps annually produces several of these varietals including Syrah,Viognier and a Chateauneuf-du-Pape style blend called Le Mistral.
In 1993 additional fruit from Le Mistral was made into "Pastiche," a medium-bodied red wine blend that is both approachable and affordable. The 1997 vintage provided a similar opportunity for a white wine comprised of Viognier, Marsanne and Chardonnay. The two wines have become so popular they have become part of the annual production.
1999 RED PASTICHE
Red Pastiche is a blend of 39% Grenache Rosé, 23% Mourvèdre, 11% Merlot, 11% Syrah and 9% Zinfandel, 5% Pinot Noir, 2% Alicante Bouschet.
Grapes were harvested at an average 24.5° Brix, fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged 10 months in a combination of French and American oak barrels before being blended and bottled in November, 2000.
Crafted in the style of a Côtes du Rhône blend, this versatile wine combines generous red, spicy fruit aromas with a soft, lingering finish of ripe berry flavors and is a perfect choice for barbecues, stews and spicy-styled dishes.
1999 WHITE PASTICHE
White Pastiche is a blend of 29% Chardonnay, 25% Scheurebe, 15% Riesling, 15% Semillon, 9% Marsanne, 5% Viognier and 2% Muscat.
Grapes were harvested at an average 24.0° Brix, with 30% of the blend barrel fermented and aged 8 months in French oak, and 70% fermented in stainless steel tanks and held 8 months in German oak ovals. The two lots were then blended and bottled in September, 2000.
Similar to an Alsatian white wine, this blend of seven different varieties offers layers of floral, pear and citrus aromas. A mouth-coating texture serves up similar flavors through the lingering finish. An excellent choice for poultry and seafood dishes.
Awards and Reviews: Comments from the Wine Spectator, Nov. 15, 2000
JAMES LAUBE'S TOP-SCORING CALIFORNIA CABERNETS & BLENDS
JOSEPH PHELPS Insignia
Napa Valley 1997 (96 harvest)
Superrich and seductive, its layers of currant, black cherry, chocolate and ginger turning smooth and polished, with a long, intricate aftertaste.
JOSEPH PHELPS Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley, Backus Vineyards 1997 (96 harvest)
Rich, ripe, smooth and polished, with dense tiers of currant, mocha, black cherry, plum, spice and cedar flavors. Silky-smooth and chocolaty on the finish.
TOP PICKS FROM THIS ISSUE'S BUYING GUIDE
California [Syrah] keeps getting better and better, thanks to the varietal's advocates there such as Joseph Phelps, a Syrah pioneer whose Napa Valley 1997 is its best yet.
JOSEPH PHELPS Syrah
Napa Valley 1997 (94 harvest)
An exotic, rich and polished Rhône-style red from California, with layers of favor and a long, elegant finish. Highly Recommended.
NEW RELEASES
JOSEPH PHELPS Semillon Napa Valley
Delice du Semillon 1997, 375 ml (93 harvest)
Ultrarich and figlike, with spicy pear, honey, yeast, dough and butter flavors that turn seductive and rich on the finish. Drink now through 2997.
Personnel Corner:
Manuel Zaragoza Shoulders Supervisory
Responsibilities at Freestone
Juan Manuel Zaragoza has a lot on his plate. In 1998, he joined Joseph Phelps' vineyard team as supervisor of the new Sonoma County property at Freestone, where 55 acres were planted to vineyard. Currently, Manuel is overseeing the development of erosion control measures at Quail Hill and seems completely unfazed by the responsibility. "I get along with everybody," he remarks -- "or at least I try to."
A lot has been accomplished under his supervision at both the Freestone and Quail Hill vineyards, with vines having been planted at Freestone this year, and planting scheduled for Quail Hill after the rains in the spring of 2001.
When asked what he likes most about the job, his answer is simple. "Everything," he laughs. "Even in winter. I love to work outside. I love the rain. Every day that it rained last year I went over to check drainage. This winter will be even more work because there's the new vineyard at Quail Hill."
Manuel Zaragoza in the Freestone Flat Vineyard
Manuel was born in Mexicali, Mexico in 1953, one of 8 children. He grew up helping his father pick cotton on weekends until his father moved to Mesa, Arizona in the mid-60's to work in the citrus groves. In 1967, Manuel's mother joined her husband, bringing with her Manuel, one other son, and one daughter. The rest of the family joined them in 1969, when they all moved to Napa and Mr. Zaragoza went to work first for Mondavi and later for Beringer. Manuel was 16 and began to learn vineyard work from his father. At 19, he went to work for Christian Bros., where he stayed for seven years until moving to Domaine Chandon. There he worked 21 years, holding the title of supervisor for the last 18. "I was in charge of 17 guys except dur-ing harvest, when the number went up to 48 or 50."
He notes that working for a sparkling wine facility is completely different than working for a still wine producer -- "Sparkling wine grapes are picked much sooner, at around 18° Brix. Still wine grapes stay on the vine longer and the vines require more care -- it's more complicated. I have a lot to learn."
He seems to be well on his way along the learning curve, and with his intelligence and enthusiasm has already proved a valuable asset to the vineyard and production arm of
the winery.
Manuel lives in Napa with his wife, Carmen, and two stepchildren, Yissel and Alex. He has four children from a previous marriage - Maria, Aida, Vicenta and Juan, Jr. - and five grandchildren.
