2008 Chardonnay, Pastorale Vineyard

As it was last year, the limited-edition Chardonnay sourced from the Pastorale Vineyard is at once both deeper than its mate but also less keenly balanced in all of its pieces. Its heady aromas of crème brûlée, caramel and sweet spices all set atop a base of ripe and green apples will never be mistaken for a shy flower... this one is also seriously good Chardonnay.

This is a block selection from a mixed planting of heritage selections and Dijon clones, the vines surrounding the winery eight miles inland from the Pacific. The golden color and scentes of nutmeg and caramel show the toasty richness of the oak... It has the coastal acidity and citrus notes to sustain a relatively austere, roasted hazelnut finish. Cellar this for a few years to let the fruit become more expressive.