Spring 2009
In the Thick of the Oak Forest
JPV’s WINEMAKER VISITS THE ANCIENT WOODS OF FRANCE
By Ashley Hepworth
I am fascinated with oak used for barrels and the craft of coopering a barrel. In February 2009 I had the incredible opportunity to join a group of winemakers in France with one of our barrel companies Tonnellerie Sylvain. The week began on the right bank of Bordeaux in Libourne where the seasoning yard, stave mill and cooperage are located. The trip concluded in one of the main forests where they purchase wood, the Tronçais forest.
Jean-Luc Sylvain transformed his father’s barrel maintenance business, which began in Libourne in the mid 1950’s, into a world class cooperage in the early 80’s. Today Sylvain is a staple barrel among the top chateaux in Bordeaux, world class wineries throughout Europe, the Napa Valley and the Southern Hemisphere. The cooperage produces around 30,000 barrels per year. The attention to detail I witnessed, including the passion, knowledge and tenacity that Mr. Sylvain has for each phase of the barrel making process is truly admirable. He gathered his wealth of knowledge from hands-on experience beginning with understanding the most important part of the barrel making process, which is sourcing the oak.
Jean-Luc Sylvain at the entrance to the Tronçais Forest.
There are many beautiful oak forests in France, most of which are owned by the government, supervised, protected and preserved by the Forests National Office (ONF). French oak used for barrels comes from an assortment of forests in different regions which contain different species of oak as well as different growing conditions and thus different grain widths. All of which are important to the winegrower and the type of wine they wish to age in barrel.
Tronçais is located in the center of France in the Allier Department (west of Burgundy). The forest covers approximately 26,500 acres. In 1327, part of the forest was given away to the Bourbon lords and in 1528 it was confiscated and became part of Charles III, Duke of Bourbon’s assets. Then in 1670, during the rule of the “Sun-King”, Louis the XIV directed Jean-Baptiste Colbert (his minister of finance) to perform a detailed exploration of the Tronçais forest, marking boundaries and creating parcels while promoting seedlings in order to anticipate future wood needs for the construction of shipping vessels.
In the late eighteenth century a major part of the forest was managed by Lord Rambourg who supplied the forge located in the forest. Currently the Tronçais forest is divided into three parts. The first part is approximately 24,500 acres of straight standings with a regeneration period of around 200 years for carpentry wood (6,000 acres) and 250 years for the wood that is used by the cooper (18,500 acres). The second part is approximately 1,120 acres of pine trees with a regeneration period of around 100 years. The third part is dedicated solely to leisure space.
The life cycle of a parcel in an ONF-managed forest begins at the germination stage and follows through to the pole stage, perch stage, young futaie stage, haute futaie stage, sowers and finally the harvesting. The germination stage occurs with seedlings from sowers which are the straightest in the parcel and are the oldest and the last to get harvested. The acorns establish themselves in the forest floor and when there is sufficient sunlight penetration around the sowers being harvested, the seedlings become very thick; typically there are hundreds of thousands per acre. The ONF will intervene by eliminating competitive species and help clear any weak seedlings. The pole stage is when the tree reaches about 15-30 years old. Competition is fierce during this stage and natural selection takes place in addition to the ONF intervening by clearing out brush to promote growth of the straightest and strongest trees. The straighter the tree and the higher up the branches start, the more wood can be used for barrel making. When an oak tree reaches approximately 40-60 years, this stage is referred to as Perch, and continual natural selection and the watchful eye of the ONF takes place. At this time the strongest and straightest trees with branches starting high on the trunk are marked for sowing.
Haute Futaie
At the century mark, the young futaie has reached its maximum height which can be around 80-100 feet. The diameter at this time is approximately 12 inches and will continue to grow over the next hundred years. Haute futaie is the reference name given to the tree at around the 200 year mark. This is an important time because the growth of the tree slows down and selected cuts are conducted over the next 20+ years by the cooperage/carpentry industries. The best sowers are allowed to seed and are finally harvested during the definitive cut (last cut of the parcel) and the process begins all over again. Within each plot the trees are about the same age, although an adjoining plot could be 200 years older than its neighboring plot, which reaffirms the constant re-generation taking place.
The strongest and straightest trees are called “sowers.” This sower is over 250 years old.
October is a very exciting time for the cooper/saw mill owners because tree auctions take place. Coopers bid on parts of parcels that they have already had their eye on; thanks to the organized ONF that sends out a book describing each part of every parcel in each forest including the tree measurements that will be up for auction. The cooper and the saw mill owner are typically working together for the bidding because only about 50% of the tree (“the merrain”) will be able to go to the stave mill for coopering. The balance of the tree goes to the saw mill owner for carpentry wood. They are mutually interested in quality primarily and price secondarily. They decide what they will bid on jointly, which means they have already gone together to the plots of interest, re-measured diameters and eyed the height and the amount of usable wood between the two of them. After the auction lots are obtained, cooper and saw mill managers will organize the felling of the trees during the winter months. The trees are measured again once felled to determine exactly what part of the tree will go to the stave mill and what will go to the saw mill. Trunks are organized with the name of the cooperage and a reference number tracking back to the exact tree location in that plot and then transported to the cooperage. After two days of studying the forest, seeing the regeneration and watching trees felled, I felt obliged to ask Mr. Sylvain how many acres of the Tronçais forest he thought he had used in his cooperage over the past 29 years. His response was he could be within a few parcels in one small area of the Tronçais forest and spend his whole life buying wood just from this area.
Just harvested merrian
The two species of French Oak that are of interest to the cooper are Quercus sessiliflora (referred to as sessile oak) and Quercus robur (referred to as pedunculate oak). In general, sessile oak produces straight trees with branches starting high up the trunk and usually with tighter grain. Pedunculate oak typically has branches which are more spread out and begin lower on the trunk and produces wider-grained wood. There has been quite a bit of natural cross-fertilization over the years between these two species. Relatively speaking the Tronçais forest is predominately sessile oak. However, the most important factors are the grain width and in which area the tree was grown.
Winegrowers might choose a tighter grain, thin stave barrel (22 mm thick) for more oxygen ingress during the wine aging (traditional for aging Bordeaux varietals) or a wider grained barrel with thicker staves (27 mm thick) for less oxygen incorporation (traditional for Syrah, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir). Think of the grains as a bunch of straws on end: the more straws, the tighter the grain and the more oxygen ingress will occur during aging; fewer straws, the wider the grain and less oxygen incorporation.
At the cooperage the logs are split into staves, sanded and stacked loosely on top of one another in a lattice pattern on a pallet for open element seasoning (air, sun, wind, rain, etc.). Logs yield approximately 8-16 barrels; it really depends on the size of the merrain as to how many barrels a tree can produce. Seasoning at Sylvain is approximately 36 months during which time enzymes form to break down coarse wood tannin creating softer more complex compounds including delicate aromatics. The longer the seasoning takes place the less harsh the oak flavor profile will be. Typically French oak barrels are aged for 24-36 months, most of the barrels for Joseph Phelps Vineyards are aged an average of approximately 36 months. During the seasoning the stacks of wood on each pallet are sometimes restacked in order for the bottom layer to get shuffled to the top layer and vice versa to ensure homogeneity. After the seasoning period the staves are re-sanded and the barrel building and toasting process occurs.
Barrel toasting.
Toasting is a cooperage specialty; one cooper’s “heavy” toast barrel could be what another cooper calls “medium plus” toast which is all dependent on the amount of time and the temperature during toasting. Therefore it is up to the winegrower to decide what they prefer for the wine they are making: Tronçais wood, tight grain, thin stave, heavy toast, 24 month seasoned, etc. The possibilities are numerous. The crafting and toasting of a barrel take just a couple of hours. Then barrels are ready to get wrapped up in plastic and shipped to the winegrower.
Cooperages, like natural cork companies, are performing intensive haloanisole* testing on their products throughout the processing stages including raw wood, seasoning and also the transportation vessel, which ensures the customer a wood product is certified free of TCA. Cooperages are being watched heavily at the moment because the French government has launched an audit to make sure that the origin of the wood and seasoning time that the cooperage state are truthful. Indeed, the French government found that some cooperages that were advertising and selling barrels under one specific forest were cutting corners by substituting expensive single forest staves with less expensive and lower quality staves, sometimes of Eastern European origin. It is now commonly known among winegrowers that if you want a barrel that is 100% from one specific forest, you may ask the cooperage for the complete traceability of the wood origin and length of seasoning. They are obliged to furnish this information to the customer.
At Joseph Phelps Vineyards we enjoy using some specific single forest barrels for our wines, but mostly we are concerned and focused on working with reputable cooperages and with the grain selection that we desire for the wine being aged. Most of the oak barrels we use are tight grain, and from forests in the center of France, which means that the grain selection is the key factor here and the wood is sourced not just from Tronçais but from other forests that all have similar grain width and similar quality levels. Some other forests popular for tight-grain selections are Bertranges, Belleme, Berce, Loches and Sarthe. Sylvain barrels are a blend of a handful of different forests, but to Mr. Sylvain the most important factor is that the wood is of the best quality, has a tight grain, is seasoned properly in the open air with the elements and the toasting is done watchfully so that they deliver a consistent product year after year. At Joseph Phelps Vineyards, we work with approximately fourteen different cooperages each of whom we have worked with for many years. We have developed close relationships with these cooperages which is extremely important.
This in-depth understanding of the Tronçais forest has broadened my understanding and respect towards oak sourcing, regeneration of the forest and the time it takes to create a barrel that will be used to age our wine from trees over 200 years old.
*Haloanisoles are chemical compounds that convey a musty, moldy or dirty aroma in wood products or wine. They are formed when fungi make their environment less toxic to them by breaking down the haloanisole precursor. The most common wine haloanisoles are TCA (trichloroanisole) and TBA (tribromoanisole). TCA is commonly described as “cork taint.” Either spoilage aroma can be found in most natural products that contain phenols including barrels, barrel containers, natural corks or wine.
New Freestone Wine Club Debuts with 2007 Vintage
By Stephen Pavy, Director of Hospitality
I have important news for Phelps Preferred members about our Freestone and Fogdog Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Many of you have enjoyed these Sonoma Coast wines which, because the Freestone winery was under construction, were produced here at Joseph Phelps in 2004, 2005 and 2006.
Beginning in 2007, with the winery completed in time for harvest, we were able to produce and bottle all of our Sonoma Coast fruit on the Freestone estate. Therefore, starting with the 2007 vintages, these wines are available only through Freestone Vineyards in Sonoma County and will not be available at our winery in St. Helena. And perhaps most important of all, we will have three single vineyard wines from the 2007 vintage that are available only to members of the Freestone Private Collection.
To support customer access to these limited production wines at the best possible pricing, we created the “Freestone Private Collection”, a new wine club modeled after “Phelps Preferred”.
By joining Freestone Private Collection, you will receive the following:
- Access to Single Vineyard Estate Wines – three new wines, in extremely limited production of less than 50 cases each, are available with the 2007 vintage.
They include:- Freestone Chardonnay, Pastorale Vineyard
- Freestone Pinot Noir, Pastorale Vineyard
- Freestone Pinot Noir, Quarter Moon Vineyard
- 20% off on all wine purchases (except single vineyard wines).
- 20% discount on merchandise.
- Complimentary wine tasting at the Freestone Vineyards Guest Center for up to four persons per visit.
- Three different membership levels from which to choose.
- Special Event invitations at the Freestone Vineyards Guest Center.
Under the direction of Duane Harris, the same great customer service team which has taken care of your Phelps Preferred needs will also be handling all Freestone transactions.
Look for details about the club in upcoming e-mails and letters from us. Or, if you would like to sign up now, please call Customer Service at 1-800-707-5789.
A Message From Bill Phelps
April 27, 2009
If you’ll excuse our expression of pride, all of us at Joseph Phelps Vineyards think our wines are special. This issue of the Spring Valley Times gives quite a bit of credence to that theory.
These pages highlight the passion, skills and professionalism of seven of our team members, each of whom contribute greatly to our success.
Ashley Hepworth recently returned from the forests of France, where she learned much about barrel-making that will enhance her skills as a winemaker.
Philippe Pessereau is passionate about sustainable and biodynamic farming, and transforms that passion into ever-improving vineyard practices.
Rob Baxter spreads the story of our wines and our vineyards throughout dozens of international markets, with a style and dedication all his own.
Nicole Boutilier, Keith Grimson, Claude Leruitte and Jan Vierra – known to countless visitors and club members – share their knowledge and love of wine with our customers every day.
When you read the articles in this issue, I hope you’ll share my belief that these people – and many, many others on our team – are indeed part of something special.Vineyard Strategies & the 2009 Growing Season
By Philippe Pessereau, Director of Vineyard Operations
Due to our inherent status as vignerons, we are constantly having to deal with the tribulations of Mother Nature. More specifically, due to our location in a Mediterranean climate where it almost never rains from April to October, and temperatures can push the thermometer bulb quite high during that period, we need to take into account yearly precipitations.
In addition, since grapevines depend on certain water needs for growth and especially evapotranspiration, it is crucial that we consider these parameters in our farming approach in order to achieve appropriate vine development for optimum fruit quality.
We monitor annual rainfall for each ranch yearly and we also measure plant water stress during the growing season. At the beginning of the rainy season in October, we track precipitation through the following season (through May) to paint a picture of the soil moisture status.
Then around bloom time (mid to late May), we start measuring vine water stress in specific areas in each vineyard. Such measurements are usually repeated weekly and enable us to determine when, where and in which quantity we need to irrigate.
In general, if we have a normal rainy season (30-37 inches based on site) we will not need to irrigate early, but if precipitation is sparse we will need to apply water earlier. These decisions also depend on the soil characteristics in each vineyard. Well-drained soils (rocky, gravelly, sandy, elevated or shallow) will tend to have a drier soil profile earlier than less well drained soils (clay, hardpan and deep).
Thus far (in the 08-09 season), we have received from 60% to 86% of our average rainfall, depending on the site. In most cases, we have seen similar or better rainfall than the 07-08 season.
Spring Valley in April of this year after the winter rains
Besides observing rainfall and plant water stress, we also have a panoply of tools at our disposal to maintain adequate soil moisture during the growing season. We apply soil amendments, use more sustainable practices and tailor our soil management according to the weather.
For example, in the fall we broadcast lime, gypsum, dolomite, and compost depending on the site requirements. This is done to maintain proper soil structure for better drainage, aeration and nutrition levels. We also plant cover crops within vine rows to bring organic matter and natural nitrogen to the soil, and also attract beneficial insects. The incorporation of compost and cover crops keeps proper levels of organic matter for humus soil build up. An added benefit of this organic matter is its capacity to absorb water like a sponge. When combined with calcic amendment, the result is well aerated, moist soil which in turn serves to boost soil microbial life activity. Such soils are teeming with life and provide the foundation for robust healthy vines which in turn are able to withstand weather changes and pest pressure.
We also time our soil cultivation to not only incorporate cover crops in the spring but to activate soil moisture and thus delay the need for irrigation. We firmly believe in feeding and nourishing the soil so that vines have nutrients at their disposal when needed. Moreover, via cultivation, we force vine roots to descend and explore deeper soil profiles where there is more soil moisture available later on in the growing season.
Since working with soil takes time, we supplement vine nutrition and provide stress relief using biodynamic teas and decoctions made from plant extracts and delivered as foliar sprays.
Even though we cannot change the weather conditions, we have several means to mitigate and counterbalance their effects by adapting our farming methods so that we can still grow and produce fruit of natural and excellent quality. The timing and execution of all these approaches is very important since plants cannot retreat to moist and shaded areas. They are in permanent contact with and exposure to the elements and this is where our role as good stewards of the vineyard and the land begins. Nonetheless, in the end the climatic conditions always prevail and do so by leaving their signature in the resulting vintage. We as vignerons try to intervene to the best of our abilities in order to craft the other side of the vintage with our farming signature.2009 Spring Releases
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley
BLEND & GRAPE SOURCE: 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec from estate-owned vineyards (66%) and independent growers (34%).
WINEMAKER'S NOTES: Grapes were harvested between September 26–October 24 at an average 25.5° Brix, fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged 19 months in a combination of 50% new French and American oak barrels and 50% two-year-old oak. Coopers include Dargaud Jaegle, Sylvain, Demptos, Taransaud, Vicard, Nadalie, Canton and Kelvin.
The inky, purple-black color of the 2006 Cabernet is layered with ripe blackberry, red plum, cream, tobacco and anise aromas followed by juicy, ripe raspberry and rich, dark fruit flavors. Sweet tannins are nicely integrated and the wine ends with excellent structure, length and balance.Click here to read more.
2006 Syrah
BLEND & GRAPE SOURCES: 100% Napa Valley Syrah from the Hyde Vineyard.
WINEMAKER'S NOTES: Grapes were harvested October 13 at an average 26.0° Brix, fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged 19 months in a combination of new French oak barrels (53%) and two-year-old French oak (47%) from coopers Ermitage, Saury, Rousseau, Sirugue and Saint Martin. The wine was blended and bottled in June, 2008.
Notes of caramel, nutmeg and heady floral aromas followed by tobacco, white pepper and black plum pave the way for great texture on the palate, velvety tannins and rich earthy flavors yielding to a persistent length.Click here to read more.
2008 Eisrébe
BLEND & GRAPE SOURCES: 100% Scheurebe from our home ranch in Spring Valley outside of St. Helena.
WINEMAKER'S NOTES: Grapes were harvested September 12, 2008 at an average 23.9° Brix, then frozen to minus 5°F and subsequently pressed, after which the sugar content of the juice measured 35.0° Brix. The wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks to 21% residual sugar and 8.0% alcohol and bottled in December, 2008.
The estate-grown 2008 Scheurebe has delicate aromas of ripe peach and apricot followed by a rich and unctuous texture integrated with well balanced, bright acidity and a persistent finish.JOHN MARSH DAVIS 1931-2009
John Marsh Davis, the eminent Bay Area architect who designed our winery building, passed away on February 22, 2009 after more than three-quarters of a century of celebrated excellence in architecture.
Joe Phelps met John in the early 70’s when he designed Rutherford Hill Winery (then Souverain), and Francis Ford Coppola’s winery in Geyserville (then Chateau Souverain.) Those wineries were built by Joe’s construction company, Hensel Phelps, and Joe was so impressed with John’s ideas, he hired him to design JPV.Meet Members of our Hospitality Staff
By Stephen Pavy, Director of Hospitality
From left to right: Nicole Boutilier, Claude Leruitte, Keith Grimson and Jan Vierra.
One of the benefits of your Phelps Preferred membership is the opportunity to attend events at Joseph Phelps Vineyards, such as Insignia Weekend and Phelps Preferred Dinners. Another benefit is that you are able to book private tasting appointments. I would like to introduce the staff that performs these important services at Joseph Phelps Vineyards.
NICOLE
Nicole Boutilier, Phelps Preferred and Trade Hospitality Coordinator, was born in Massachusetts and raised in Connecticut. It was the cold New England winters that brought her to Northern California in 1996. Originally headed for a career in fashion merchandising, Nicole soon realized that her passion for food and wine was drawing her to Napa Valley and a life in the country.
After being bitten by the wine bug, Nicole took as many wine classes as she could and passed the Court of Master Sommelier’s Introductory Sommelier Exam in 2001. She joined the JPV hospitality team in 2006. “Wine education is my passion and I just happen to be lucky enough to do it for a living and do it for one of the most respected vineyards, with the most enthusiastic, knowledgeable and hospitable staff in Napa Valley.”
CLAUDE
Private tastings are a specialty of Claude Leruitte, a man of many talents. He is fluent in French and English and has “notions of Dutch and Italian”. Born in Belgium, Claude became a United States citizen in 1981. He holds a degree from the "Athenee Royale de Huy" in Belgium and a B.A. in Art and Sciences from New College, University of Hawaii.
In 1972, Claude was hired as the head sommelier of the prestigious Maile restaurant of the Kahala Hilton and was the founder and first president of the Hawaii Chapter of the "Guild of Sommeliers of London.” In 1978, he established a gourmet French restaurant, Le Café de Paris, in Honolulu which was cited as one of the 10 best restaurants in Hawaii. In 1981, after selling the restaurant, he embarked on several business ventures in both Hawaii and Belgium, and in 1999 moved to California and joined Joseph Phelps Vineyards as a wine educator. Claude works Friday through Sunday conducting private tastings for VIP guests, Phelps Preferred members and trade guests.
KEITH
Keith Grimson also conducts private tastings for VIP guests, Phelps Preferred members, and trade guests, and works Monday through Thursday. Originally from the Midwest, Keith practiced orthodontics in Illinois for 30 years before retiring to the Napa Valley area. Like many of us who have found our way to JPV, his love of wine resulted in pursuing a second career in the wine industry.
After taking classes in fermentation science and viticulture at Napa Valley College, Keith joined the JPV Hospitality Team in 1996 as a wine educator with a special emphasis in hosting guests in the wine trade.
“I’ve enjoyed my years here immensely not only because I meet so many interesting people, but also because I am able to work with and learn from the talented employees of JPV. I can’t think of a more enjoyable, stress-free retirement that has kept me active and involved in such an exciting, dynamic industry.”
JAN
Jan Vierra, Events Coordinator and Wine Educator, was born in Pasadena and raised in Thousand Oaks, California. Just out of school she moved to Northern California for a change of pace.
After three years with Mirassou Winery and four years at Domaine Chandon, Jan joined Joseph Phelps Vineyards in 1996. Today Jan plans and executes all of the private parties and events including Phelps Preferred dinners and Insignia Days. “I have the good fortune to do what I love most, work with top notch chefs, pair our beautiful wines with fabulous cuisine, plan over-the-moon parties, work with an incredible staff and meet the most amazing and fun visitors. It doesn’t get any better than that.”
Trip to Asia Proves Fruitful for JPV Wines
By Rob Baxter, Export Consultant
Rob at the Joseph Phelps dinner in the Park Hyatt Hotel on the 93rd floor of the Shanghai World Financial Center
SINGAPORE
My first trip of the year to the Far East found me stopping over in Singapore with its equatorial warmth. In conjunction with our importer Culina I hosted a soldout dinner at newly-opened The Mountbatten Room of the venerable British club. This venue was included in the Wine & Dine Singapore Top Restaurants Guide for 2008.
Whilst in Singapore I visited Don Tay’s Bacchus wine store, one of the best in Asia, which has cases of Insignia and other fine wines piled high almost to the ceiling; only Don knows what gems are buried under the more recent vintage arrivals.
HONG KONG
My next stop was Hong Kong, one of Asia’s most vibrant cities, where we have been working with Richard Paine from importer Fine Vintage since the late 1980’s.
Hong Kong has become Asia’s wine hub since the abolition of import duties in 2008. Its reputation as one of Asia’s culinary capitals has been reinforced by the release of the very first Hong Kong & Macau Michelin Guide for 2009.
I was fortunate to dine at one star Michelin Petrus restaurant in the luxurious Island Shangri-La which has dominating views of the skyline and does a brisk trade in JPV Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. During my stay I hosted a JPV dinner at H-One in the International Financial Centre in conjunction with visiting two star Michelin chef Juuse Mikkonen of Finland.
The following night we held a private press dinner at Morton’s in the Sheraton in Kowloon with the notable attendance of wine journalist and consultant Simon Tam who has been to JPV several times. The highlight of the dinner was a 1986 Insignia magnum which was showing a lovely elegance with lush black cherry aromas and a touch of spice. JPV wines are also to be found in several retail outlets in Hong Kong such as K.K. Wong’s outstanding Rare & Fine Wines stores which have an enviable selection of the world’s premier wines and City Super’s specialist wine section.
View from the 93rd floor of the Shanghai World Financial Center
into the Jin Mao tower, also one of the world’s tallest buildings.
DONGGUAN
We are reading more and more about China as an upcoming destination for expats and travelers and the final leg of my trip to mainland China underscored the diversity of this huge country. I started off close to Hong Kong in the city of Dongguan in the Pearl River Delta of the Guangdong region which is still in its infancy regarding international food and wine, despite its six and a half million inhabitants.
The jewel in Dongguan’s crown is the new Hyatt Regency whose spacious park and lake belie the proximity to one of the world’s largest manufacturing centers, responsible for many of China’s exports. Here we introduced local dignitaries to the delights of JPV’s wines matched to perfection in the Copper Grill restaurant by passionate Austrian chef Erich Garber.
SHANGHAI
The penultimate stop of my tour took me to Shanghai, which is China’s most sophisticated culinary scene with the diversity of wines to match, and is home to our importer ASC Fine Wines’ head office from where our energetic fellow Californian Amy Bromstead manages our brands in mainland China. Amy took me to ASC’s unique Wine Residence which is a peaceful haven for fine wine lovers, whose members can store their wines in an underground cellar, situated in an exquisitely restored 1906 Club House off People’s Square in the heart of this city of 20 million. The following night we held an historic JPV dinner in the Park Hyatt on the 93rd floor of the Shanghai World Financial Center, which is by some measures the tallest functioning building in the world at 492 meters (101 storeys). This newly opened Hyatt counts as the highest hotel in the world (from the ground!) and our sold-out dinner was presided over by the very capable Master Sommelier Shang Jean- Marc Nolant.
Guests at the Park Hyatt JPV dinner.
BEIJING
No visit to China would be complete without a trip to Beijing where I found myself at the end of my tour savouring a delicious lunch at Maison Boulud in the historic Legation Quarter just off Tiananmen Square. Daniel Boulud is well-known to many of our Phelps Preferred members from his U.S. restaurants, and in this exotic Asian outpost you can enjoy a couple of different vintages of Insignia and Napa Cabernet to accompany his French inspired cuisine made from local and Pacific Rim ingredients.
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Press Accolades |
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2007 Joseph Phelps Sauvignon Banc (St. Helena) Vivid, ripe and tropical, offering pineapple, dried mango, peach and apricot flavors, with mineral grace notes that gain momentum on the finish. Offers refreshing acidity and a light body. Drink now. – M.W. (May 31, 2009) |
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2005 Joseph Phelps Insignia Proprietary Red Wine (Napa Valley) Possesses sweet aromas of black cherries, cassis, chocolate, camphor, and a subtle hint of roasted herbs. Medium to full-bodied and elegant, with a European style imposed on the rich, velvety, California fruit, this cuvée will benefit from several years of bottle age and will easily keep for three decades. (December 31, 2008) 2006 Freestone Vineyard Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast - 92 points |
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2006 Joseph Phelps Insignia Proprietary Red Wine (Napa Valley) Bright, deep ruby. Primary aromas of cassis, violet, tar, minerals, licorice and nutty oak. Sweet black raspberry and mocha flavors are complicated by tar and licorice from the petit verdot... Finishes with fine dusty tannins and excellent persistence. (May/June 2008) 2006 Freestone Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast) Captivating aromas of strawberry, raspberry, flowers, incense, mocha and loam, with... blood orange emerging as the wine opens in the glass. Quite supple, even creamy in the middle palate, with musky red berry, earth and spice flavors... Some wholecluster and whole-berry fermentation has contributed both an intriguing floral/spicy quality and a creamy sweetness... this second release of the estate’s flagship pinot is a knockout. (December 2008) |
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Freestone Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast) Joseph Phelps has been working this cool-climate vineyard for years. Now it’s paying off in this acidic Chardonnay with a tang of the sea. Rich in Meyer lemon, lime, guava and spice flavors, its coating of smoky oak adds exotic levels of buttered toast and crème brulée. Fascinating and tremendous. (February 2009) |
