Spring 2008
It's Springtime & the Sheep are Back!
For the third consecutive year, 220 ewes and an equal number of lambs have been imported onto our home ranch as part of our biodynamic program. Their presence contributes to the vineyard environment in a number of ways:
•Grazing on the cover crop avoids soil compaction from farm equipment which is
detrimental to root growth.
•Sheep are natural recyclers: their manure helps fertilize the root system of the vines.
•Along with bees and chickens, their presence increases biodiversity on the ranch.
A major goal in any biodynamic program is to create a farming environment that is as self-sustaining as possible. At JPV we are currently farming 140 acres biodynamically, and it is our goal to eventually become 100% biodynamic.
A Primer on grape tannins:
Everything you always wanted to know
(but were afraid to ask)
By Kelly Fields, Enologist
[Ed. Note: We are indebted to Phelps Preferred member Mike Faber, from Wisconsin, for his thought-provoking letter about tannins. “I have heard that tannin is primarily a texture,” he writes. “but many wine writers…give tannins all kinds of attributes, including dryness/sweetness, ripeness, fruit, viscosity, etc. If tannins are primarily about texture…then how can they be sweet or ripe?…I think tannin is the least understood component about wine,” he concludes. “Why not devote a column explaining it?”
An excellent idea, and herein is our explanation as written by JPV’s resident enologist, Kelly Fields. This is not a simple subject, and we think Kelly did a great job. Let us know what you think.]
Both red and white wines are composed of many molecules: water, ethanol, acids, color, tannin and sugars. Color and tannin are two molecules found in a larger class of molecules called phenols. Phenolics are a group
of compounds naturally found in many substances from aromas to foods to antibiotics.
In relation to wine, phenolics are found naturally within the berry and constitute the color or anthocyanin and tannin. These two groups are found in most plants, flowers and fruits. They serve as natural attractants, such as colorful flowers, or deterrents, such as a bitter taste, in order to discourage animals from eating them. The name tannin comes from its ability to ‘tan’ or soften leather.
There are two main classes of phenolics within grapes and wine, the flavonoids and the non-flavonoids. The two main types that are most commonly referenced in wine are both in the flavonoid class and those are the anthocyanins, which are the color components, and the tannins, which are responsible for astringency, stability and structure of a wine. Grapes contain many types of important phenolic components, but these are the most well known in red wines. Tannin is mistakenly used as a general term to classify all phenolics because it is very prominent in red wines.
Tannin is produced within the seed and the skin of the berry and anthocyanin is produced in the skins while the tannins are maturing. Almost all the tannin that can be made will be produced by veraison – the point at which the fruit stops growing and starts ripening (Figure 1). In the vineyard this can be seen once half the berries on the cluster have changed color from green to red or purple. After veraison the tannins that were produced mature to a less bitter state and the colors within the skins are synthesized (Figure 2).
When grapes are mature and ready to be picked there are many components that are important. As a berry ripens the acid levels decrease, the sugar levels increase, the tannins decrease and become less astringent, and the colors and flavors develop.
All these processes are very important in making the correct picking decisions. Tannin and anthocyanin concentrations vary between red grape varietals with Pinot Noir having smaller amounts than Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot concentrations being somewhere in between. White wines have colorless anthocyanin with very low tannin levels because, unlike red wines, they are not fermented on the skins and the seeds.
Anthocyanins are not only important for color. During fermentation anthocyanins are released from the skins which have a finite quantity depending on the grape and its maturity. Tannins are released from both the skins and seeds as the fermentation progresses and the alcohol concentration increases. Tannin extraction is monitored by the winemaker and depends on the style of wine that is being made and the quality and tannin concentration the fruit offers.
Figure 1
Tannin is important in enhancing the longevity of a wine. Tannin concentration is important because it creates a very stable color molecule by linking with anthocyanin molecules. This linking can happen during fermentation and throughout the maturation of the wine during barrel and bottle aging. These molecules will continue to form and will eventually fall out of solution as a red wine ages, leaving colored particles in the bottle.
Tannins are critical to a red wine’s balance and structure. When made from ripe grapes, wine has a balance of tannin, alcohol and acidity which contribute to a wine’s mouth feel. Sometimes wines are described as hard or soft or ripe or green. These descriptors refer to tannin maturity (when the grapes were picked), and its balance with the acid and alcohol. Tannin descriptors are extremely subjective and versatile, so defining them can be difficult, but all of them are describing the mouth feel and texture of the wine.
If a wine is described as big or strong it is simply referring to a wine with a high concentration of tannin. If a wine is described as soft or supple, there is a lower concentration of tannin. When the tannin is in balance with the alcohol and acidity of the wine, it comes across with a nice mouth feel that is not overwhelming. Sometimes ‘sweet’ or ‘ripe’ are also used in conjunction with tannin descriptors. This can be confusing because it is actually describing a wine that is made from healthy, ripe fruit and has a good balance overall, not just with the tannins.
A wine that is described as hard, green, drying or astringent refers to tannins that are
not in balance with the alcohol and acidity and may reflect fruit that has been picked when
it was under-ripe.
From grapes to juice to wine, the vineyard team and winemakers are constantly monitoring the evolution of the phenolic levels. For the general wine taster, it is important to remember that everyone’s palate is different and therefore the interpretation of a wine and its structure may differ from one person to another. A wine that one person thinks has a nice balance of fruit and tannin may seem astringent and out of balance to another.
Phenolics play a huge role in the tasting of any red wine, with genetics and individual knowledge contributing equally to one’s enjoyment of the tasting experience.
Figure 2
Figure 1. The changing color of the fruit signals veraison, when the grape cluster begins to ripen.
Figure 2. Anthocyanin and tannin production during grape berry development and ripening. Berry size is illustrated by the green curve showing the two phases of berry growth between fruit set and veraison, and after veraison when the berries are ripening. Tannin synthesis starts very early in berry development and continues until veraison in skin and for 1-2 weeks after veraison in seeds. Tannin maturation, which decreases extractability of the tannins, occurs during ripening. Anthocyanin synthesis occurs in the skin of red grapes after veraison, and after tannin synthesis is complete. (Figure courtesy of James Kennedy, Dept. of Food Science & Technology, Oregon State University, Corvallis, OR)
Message From the Chair
Bill Phelps reflects on the home ranch 35 years later
Almost exactly thirty five years ago as I write this, Joe Phelps bought the land in Spring Valley we call the Home Ranch. My recollection of coming here for the first time is vivid. In March, 1973 Joe brought his young family to St. Helena for the first time. The valley and its surrounding hills were a brilliant green, as they are today after a good winter’s rain.
We were raised in a small town in northern Colorado. While Greeley was a very nice place
to grow up, the winters were long and the landscape in March was predominately brown
and gray. I remember thinking that this is how Dorothy must have felt when she first arrived
in the land of Oz.
My sisters and I were convinced that we had arrived in an exotic and unique world. Our parents rented a home for the month of August so we could get to know the ranch and the Valley. Joe bought saddles so we could ride the horses that still lived on the ranch, alongside the cattle which had been raised here since at least the 1930s.
None of us – even Joe, I’m sure – could envision how the Napa Valley would evolve and prosper in the next few decades. But there is no doubt that we felt the magic and inexorable pull back then. Even more so, we all felt an immediate and visceral attraction to the special corner of the Napa Valley that we now could call home.
Bringing Home Tradition
Old world farming practices offer insight to
winegrowing in Freestone
By Theresa Heredia
February, 2008
A Burgundian grape-grower uses a horse-drawn plow to minimize soil compaction.
The typical view in Burgundy this time of year is that of sunlight filtered through crisp February air, random chimneys of smoke from the burning of canes, and white worker vans or “camions” scattered alongside the roads. The smell is alluring and intoxicating, like the smell of fresh coffee brewing while you are still warm inside your camp tent at 6:00 a.m. It draws you out of hibernation despite the chill in the air.
This is the time to observe vine pruning, burning of canes, horse plowing and biodynamic applications such as eucalyptus-infused clay to combat infection after vine cuts have been made.
A typical example of cordon
pruning in Burgundy.
Because many producers in this part of France have just tiny parcels to farm, each vine is often treated independently. Some are single cane pruned and some have very old unilateral cordon arms with only three to five spurs or “bearing units,” which will produce grapes in 2008. A spur is the basal portion of a cane that is left behind to produce shoots and fruit for the next season.
In Freestone, due to differences in soil composition, vine age, lower density spacing and dryer climatic conditions during the growing season, bilateral cordon and cane pruning are well adapted to the varieties of this region. These vines would in theory produce twice as much fruit as a unilateral cordon arm or a single cane.
This illustrates the difference between old Burgundy vines as compared to young California vines. These older vines, with roots embedded in rocky, limestone soil effectively produce a smaller, more concentrated crop on a per vine basis. This also explains why many wines from this region of the world are so limited and highly regarded.
The younger, adolescent vines in Freestone with roots embedded in soft, sandy soil can become vigorous and require more “bearing units” for overall vine balance and optimal fruit quality.
As history continues to teach us lessons, many small Burgundian producers are rediscovering the benefits of biodynamic and traditional farming practices. Horse plowing is being used to minimize soil compaction due to the overuse of farming equipment, and to better serve the environment. Cultivation by horse is considered practical, qualitative and respectful of the land. The anticipated result is reinvigoration of the terroir: the soil and vines that have become tired from excessive mechanization will renew to yield a product purely expressive of the site.
Here in California we can take these lessons and try to translate them for our conditions that Mother Nature has provided. Our task as caretakers is to nurture the vines, the soil, and their environment as we await their maturity. At Freestone, our goal is to apply some of these traditions, capture the essence of our site and produce wines that are truly expressive of this special region along the Sonoma Coast.
[Ed. Note: Theresa Heredia is Associate Winemaker for Freestone and traveled to Burgundy for a brief pruning apprenticeship.]
New Freestone Winery up & running for
2007 harvest!
By Theresa Heredia
Associate Winemaker, Freestone
The newly-completed Freestone winery in the calm before the "storm" of harvest.
After several years of planning and anticipation, construction of the new Freestone winery in west Sonoma County was finally completed in late spring giving way to the excitement of equipment installation and harvest preparations. In July, the winemaking team consisting of myself and Justin Ennis headed to Freestone to direct the new project. In August we were joined by Office Manager Jessica Malone, who handled many of the important startup details for the new facility.
Jessica Malone and local Occidental resident intern Scott Doughty perform pigage (punching down
or stomping the grapes) on
a whole cluster tank.
Then came the interns… The winery, once bare and empty, overflowed with a full staff from around the world. This amazing group of passionate and intelligent winemaking individuals came to us from Australia, Spain, New Zealand and California. They arrived just in time to help with barrel arrangement, equipment sanitation, ordering supplies, grape sampling and much, much more. The energy, excitement and honor that each person felt as a member of the inaugural vintage made this team incomparable. Two months of intense preparation passed quickly and then finally, the moment we had all been awaiting; Freestone Vineyard’s inaugural harvest.
On September 5th the first six tons of Pinot Noir grapes from the Quarter Moon vineyard were presented to the winery. Greg Cannon, Joel Robledo and the vineyard team provided the winery with such pristine fruit that many of the grapes were delivered directly to tank as whole clusters. This would continue for the remainder of the harvest allowing us to consider many different winemaking options. Even the interns had a chance to apply their talent to the winemaking process. Each team received a tank and submitted a proposal for approval before the onset of fermentation: one group coined the name “The Perfume Project” and the other “Insane in the Stem-brain”; both experimental wines are great and are likely destined for the 2007 Freestone Sonoma Coast blend!
After these initial few days of harvesting, the weather cooled enough to halt Pinot Noir picking for almost another two weeks. Chardonnay, however, benefited during this cool period, ripening evenly while preserving natural acidity. We used this to our advantage and began harvesting some of our Chardonnay blocks, focusing exclusively on our white winemaking regime while the Pinot Noir ripened further. The second wave of Pinto Noir harvesting began on September 25th and provided slightly different grape chemistry from the first group. The nature of our fermentations was altered and the resulting wine composition differed in tannin ripeness, fruit concentration and acid balance. These two mini Pinot Noir harvests yielded a variety of different, complex and exciting blending components.
The next interesting phase will be the evaluation of each lot of wine following completion of the malolactic fermentation. The actual blending process, anticipated sometime later this year, will focus on producing the best wines yet. After all, this is the inaugural vintage for the new winery!
2008 Spring Releases
2005 Syrah
BLEND & GRAPE SOURCE: 100% Napa Valley Syrah.
WINEMAKER'S NOTES: Grapes were harvested
October 17, 2005 at an average 26.0° Brix, fermented
in stainless steel tanks, then aged 20 months in a combination of new French oak barrels (40%) and
one to two-year-old French oak (60%) from coopers Francois Frères, Marcel Cadet, Ermitage, Saury, Rousseau and Meyrieux. The wine was blended and bottled in August, 2007.
Elegant notes of coffee, bacon fat, licorice and white pepper mold the aromatics of the 2005 Syrah. The longer growing season produced balanced black fruit characteristics combined with dried floral notes and complex flavors that contribute to its opulence and length.
VINTAGE NOTES: The 2005 vintage was unusually late due to mild temperatures during the growing season that averaged between 70-80°. From August 1 to October 31, only 15 days exceeded 90°, and even then it never got hotter than 98°. Despite this, color, flavor and sugars developed early on, though acids took longer to develop in the ripening fruit.
The vintage was also characterized by high yields. A wet spring increased tonnage by an average of 30% over expectations, and, depending on vineyard and crop balance, there will be variability in fruit quality throughout the North Coast. However we were extremely fortunate that the weather stayed dry and mild as long as it did, allowing fruit to avoid dehydration from conditions that were too warm, and mildew from weather that was too wet.
Click here to read more.
2007 Eisrébe
BLEND & GRAPE SOURCES: 100% Scheurebe from our home ranch in Spring Valley outside of St. Helena.
WINEMAKER'S NOTES: Grapes were harvested September 6, 2007 at an average 23.3 Brix, then
frozen to minus 5°F and subsequently pressed, after which the sugar content of the juice measured 34.9 Brix. The wine was fermented in stainless steel tanks to 21% residual sugar and 7.8% alcohol and bottled in December, 2007.
These estate-grown grapes come from two small vineyards on our
St. Helena ranch - one planted in 1992 and one in 2004. The wine is laced with honeyed peach and apricot aromas followed by a lengthy, juicy, seductive finish with bright acidity.
VINTAGE NOTES: Low rainfall from January through March was followed by early budbreak and near-perfect weather throughout the bloom period, ensuring good berry set on all varieties. Summer temperatures were cool and consistent until late August/early September when four days rose above 100°. Irrigation strategies and canopy management became key factors in developing fruit quality. Two inches of rain fell between October 9-15th, and though we were still harvesting fruit, overall quality was good and some of the later harvested blocks were among the best of the vintage.
In general, vines matured faster than normal in 2007-perhaps due to low rainfall during the winter-causing an abbreviated veraison-to-harvest period. Yields were down about 20%.
Click here to read more.
A Primer of Common Wine Terms
By Tom Black
Attack – The first impression the wine makes as it enters your mouth. Usually the fruit is represented in the attack since our sweet taste buds are on the front of our tongues.
Balanced – This is wine which has no characteristic stronger than the others. It is a balance of fruit, acid and tannin.
Complex – A wine with a number of flavors and qualities (all good). It’s the opposite of “one dimensional.”
Finish – The last impression the wine makes as it leaves your mouth when it’s swallowed. Usually, the longer the finish the better the wine. The opposite of a long finish would be an “aftertaste” which is the flavor that remains in the back of the throat and nasal passages after the wine has been drunk. Usually this is the sign of a wine in poor condition.
Nose – The aroma of the wine – the way it smells.
Palate – The way the wine feels in your mouth or the weight of the wine in your mouth.
Weight – The texture and heft of a wine. Wines can be thick or thin, heavy or light.
Light-bodied – For red wines, this means not much tannin. Lots of wine under $15/bottle is light-bodied. Beaujolais Nouveau wine is light-bodied. Full-bodied red wine is the opposite. Most high-priced California cabernet sauvignons are full-bodied. Light bodied white wine means a lack of acidity. Again, inexpensive white wines are usually light-bodied. Most Grand Cru white burgundies have good acidity and are full-bodied.
Good acidity – On the nose, good acidity is usually reflected by strong fruit scents – especially citrus, crisp apple and ripe pineapple. On the palate, mouthwatering – it is like biting a lemon. Acidity is reflected on the sides of your tongue. Lack of acidity gives wine a flabby characteristic and a watery finish. If the wine seems to lack vitality, it’s usually a lack of acidity.
Baked – When there is a very hot growing season with very little rainfall, the grapes may get burned. This makes the wine smell and taste earthy and “hot.” This is most often seen where wine is grown in hot climates.
Bitter – Obviously a taste detected in the mouth. Its causes are legion. However, it makes a wine undrinkable.
Coarse – A term used to describe a rough or “coarse” wine. It shows a lack of sophistication and breeding – usually a characteristic of poor or indifferent winemaking. Many great young wines seem coarse. They are not – they are immature. Immature wines are not coarse, they are young and need development much like a child versus a hopelessly coarse 60-year-old adult.
Corked – An often overused descriptor. It is caused by the bacteria, TCA. It has a very distinct wet cardboard smell and will only get worse as the bacterium multiplies during contact with air. If there’s any doubt whether or not a wine is corked, let it sit. If the smell gets worse, it’s corked.
Maderized – A heavy, flat smell marked by the lack of fresh fruit and metal elements. It’s caused by age or exposure to oxygen and is usually associated with “oxidized” which is an over exposure to oxygen. In red wine, it’s a burned metal smell. In white wine, usually the color has become deeper yellow and the nose is metallic.
Spritz or Spritzy – This is a flaw in non-sparkling wine. It is caused by refermentation starting once the wine is bottled. CO2 is released in fermentation and the wine, once bottled, can’t let that gas escape. You can recognize it by a slight prickle on the tongue.
There are plenty of other terms you can learn and hear but these will let you enjoy wine speak with a wine geek. Above all, remember – the only person whose opinion matters when it comes to wine is you.
Tom Black, an avid wine collector, oenophile and Phelps fan, is based in Nashville, TN.
Puerto Rico, aka “Phelps Island,” passionate
about JPV wines
By Mike McEvoy
Director of Sales and Marketing
JPV’s relationship with Carlos Montalvo, President of Fine Wine Imports in Puerto Rico, dates back to 1991, when Carlos was a harvest intern at Phelps. Carlos and his company now assist our Puerto Rican importer, V. Suarez & Co., with distribution of Phelps wines on the island. As a result of this collaboration, Phelps wines can be found on wine lists of the finest restaurants and hotels and in the cellars of many of the most prominent collectors in Puerto Rico.
Carlos Montalvo, president of Fine Wine Imports
in Puerto Rico (L) & Mike McEvoy of JPV (R)
In late February I had the opportunity to work with Carlos for a few days in San Juan. Among the highlights on day one was a trade and media luncheon at Augusto’s Restaurant, attended by a dozen local wine writers and restaurateurs. Chef Ariel Rodriguez created a four course menu paired with eight Phelps wines, including Insignia and Backus from the 2004 vintage. For good measure, Carlos and Phelps collector Victor Alvarez added magnums of Insignia and Backus from 1995.
Later that evening, Carlos and I hosted a sold-out wine dinner at Pikayo, located in the beautiful Puerto Rican Museum of Art. Chef Wilo Benet, the featured chef at a Phelps Preferred dinner at JPV in October 2005, prepared a five course tasting menu paired with seven Phelps wines highlighted by two vintages of Insignia, 1998 and 2004. Ninety customers delighted in the wines, Wilo’s artistic cuisine, and the modern art ambience of Pikayo.
The following evening, a group of Puerto Rico’s largest collectors gathered at Carlos’ home for an Insignia vertical tasting. The vertical spanned the last eleven vintages of Insignia, from 1994 through 2004. The wines, graciously provided by Carlos and other collectors, were tasted and discussed in three flights while Carlos cooked his paella – a red wine-friendlier version of the traditional Spanish seafood and rice dish, substituting various cuts of beef and pork for fish and shellfish. Two of the collectors augmented the vertical with 1978 and 1981 vintages of Insignia from their personal cellars. Both wines, while fully mature, were still lively and structured.
I was deeply impressed by the warm reception I received in San Juan, and the passion the community of Puerto Rican wine lovers holds for JPV and its wines. Should your travel plans include Puerto Rico, you should have no trouble finding JPV wines on what one V. Suarez representative called “Phelps Island.”
10007 Bridge Street in Truckee, CA
530-587-8688
www.moodysbistro.com
Located in the historic Truckee Hotel, Moody's Bistro and Lounge is named after J.F. Moody, the original proprietor of the Truckee Hotel, known for his extravagant hospitality.
Moody's modern day co-owners JJ Morgan and Executive Chef Mark Estee have drawn upon this nostalgia and commitment to service and revitalized the supper club, blending art deco and ambiance reminiscent of 1950s Tahoe with fine dining and elements of San Francisco's once-legendary jazz scene.
In the kitchen, Chef Mark Estee's culinary credo that "food should be fresh, seasonal, local, and simple" produces big flavors and exciting menu selections influenced by various cultures and styles. As a result, diners enjoy an ever-evolving menu of contemporary Northern California cuisine that changes daily, and has earned Estee recognition from culinary organizations such as the James Beard Foundation and Ahwahnee Chef's Holiday.
Up front in the Lounge, JJ Morgan, of San Francisco's famed Up and Down Club, has established Moody's reputation for live jazz with shows by noted artists such as Mose Allison, The Josh Roseman Unit with Peter Apfelbaum, and Dred Scott. Even
Paul McCartney has dropped in on occasion for impromptu performances.
Together, Morgan and Estee have created something unique to Northern California in the heart of the High Sierra.
Sample Menu
Starters
Ahi 4 Ways
Tempura Ponzu, Poke EG, Sashimi Soy & Seared Nuoc Cham
Wild Mushrooms
Polenta, Farm Egg Sunny Side Up & Herbs
Crispy Pig Trotters
Sauce Gribiche, Gary Romano’s Peppercress & Lemon
Soup & Salad
Roasted Tomato Soup
‘en Croute,’ Red Wine & Mint
Moody’s Wedgie
Pt. Reyes Bleu Cheese, Cucumber, Bacon & Crispy Shallots
Arugula
Dates, Bacon, Hazelnuts, Pecorino Cheese & Sherry Vinaigrette
Desserts
Moody’s S’Mores
Housemade Marshmallows, Graham Crackers & Chocolate
Toffee Cake
Peanut Brittle, Toffee Sauce & Vanilla Ice Cream
Root Beer Float
Specialty Root Beer & Vanilla Ice Cream
Entreés
Veggie Hot Pot
Bulgar, Northern Beans, sautéd Vegetables, Dashi Broth & Tofu
Whole Tai Snapper
Red Chile Glaze, Asian Slaw & Crispy Rice Noodles
Moody's Big Ass Pork Platter
Loin, Coppa, Tenderloin, Trotter, Mashers & Apple Slaw
Featured Recipe
Braised short ribs
Serves 6
Recommended Phelps wine: 2005 Napa Cabernet Sauvignon
5lb. short ribs
1.5 lb. roasted tomatoes
1 ½ cup sliced onion
½ cup sliced garlic
½ bottle red wine
¼ cup tomato paste
1 bunch chopped sage
1 bunch chopped rosemary
1Tbsp. salt
1tsp. pepper
Chicken stock to cover.
Preheat oven to 350°F. Brown short ribs in heavy-bottom braising pan. Remove short ribs from pan when finished browning. Add onions and garlic, cook until tender, then add wine, tomato paste/roasted tomatoes and herbs. Whisk ingredients together, then go in with short ribs and stock. Bring to boil, cover and put in over, for 2 hours or until tender.
Present your membership card at MOODY'S and receive 25% off a bottle of any Phelps wine. Offer valid through August 1, 2008
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Joseph Phelps 2004 Insignia (Napa Valley) |
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Joseph Phelps 2004 Backus Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville) |
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California's Best of 2007 Joseph Phelps 2004 Insignia - Napa Valley (Dec/Jan 2007-08)… the wine exhibits a deep core of luscious blackberry-blueberry fruit enhanced by seductive, fruitcake-like spicy notes and subtle vanillin oak. Finishes long and graceful. |
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California's Best of 2007 Joseph Phelps 2004 Backus Vineyard - Oakville (Dec/Jan 2007-08) Intense and powerful, yet at the same time elegant and focused, the wine's concentration and depth of flavor are amazing. Forward aromas exude a melange of black fruit ...broadened by fruitcake spices and dark chocolate. |
