Spring 2001
General Winery News:
Craig Williams celebrates twenty-five years
Craig Williams, winemaker and executive vice-president for Joseph Phelps Vineyards, is celebrating his 25th anniversary with the company this year, and for much of that time has been a guiding force behind the research and development programs at JPV. He probably wouldn't admit that, as his unassuming manner usually cedes the spotlight to others, but in fact Craig is one of California's premier winemakers with an impressive track record of success.
Craig was hired at Joseph Phelps Vineyards in 1976 at the age of 26 to assist winemaker Walter Schug. He took over red winemaking in 1980, and when Walter left to start his own winery prior to the '83 harvest, Craig was officially promoted to winemaker in charge of all wine production.
In those early days Craig describes himself as being on a steep learning curve, both as a student of winemaking and grapegrowing, with very little known about the relationship between region and wine quality. With a degree from U.C. Davis in fermentation science, Craig was well educated in the technology of winemaking but had little experience in analyzing less pragmatic data. He sees his greatest accomplishment as having bridged that gap.
"It seems so obvious now to say that wine quality is directly related to where and how the grapes are grown, but believe me, in the late seventies and early eighties the idea was revolutionary, at least in this country. Europe of course had been aware of it for centuries. I felt strongly that we needed to be investing in Cabernet vineyards, and Joe agreed. In 1983 he bought 35 acres on Manley Lane in the Rutherford benchlands. The importance of that purchase was first observed with the 1989 Insignia, which included 79% Manley Lane fruit as part of the blend and raised the wine to a new level of quality."
Joe subsequently purchased 35 acres in the Stag's Leap District in 1983, another 13 acres contiguous to the Stag's Leap property in 1986, and in 1997 signed a long-term lease with the Barboza family for 18 acres, also in Stag's Leap. This was in addition to the Backus vineyard in Oakville, which Joe had leased in 1975. At that time the 45 acre parcel had 6.75 acres planted to vines, but in December of 1996 Joe purchased the property outright and developed additional vineyards which today total 21 acres.
From its humble beginnings in 1973, when 2900 cases of Cab-ernet Sauvignon were produced from fruit purchased from an independent grower, today JPV's portfolio includes 140 acres of estate-owned (or leased) Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
And this, Craig sees, as his greatest contribution, although he is quick to qualify it. "Our success has been due to the early recognition of the importance of regionality in the brand, which allowed us to be quality driven rather than market driven. I was perhaps the spark which ignited this concept, but without Joe Phelps' innovative thinking, Bulmaro Montes's determination to improve vineyard practices, and Tom Shelton's commitment to excellence in the marketplace, we would not be where we are today. This has definitely been a team effort."
There's no question that the effort has paid off, as demonstrated by the success of Insignia, a blend which is considered a reference point for Bordelais varieties grown in California. This success is directly attributable to JPV's early recognition of — and investment in — prime vineyard land that made possible a new level of quality in Insignia at production levels similar to the great growths of Bordeaux.
Not content to rest on his laurels, however, Craig is once again branching out into unexplored territory. A new vineyard project in Sonoma County has him overseeing the production of 18,000 cases of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Also in the developmental stage is a 100 acre Cabernet vineyard in south Napa.
When asked what he envisions giving him personal satisfaction in the years to come, his wish list is very specific: "Seeing the Sonoma project come to fruition and be successful; helping guide the company during this phase of vineyard development in Napa; and improving farming practices so that we not only insure quality in the vineyards, but are good environmental stewards as well."
"Perhaps most important to me though is an old lesson from my Boy Scout days: when I
am an old man and have to turn the keys over, I'd like to be perceived as having left this
place better than when I found it." There seems little doubt that this will be the least of
his accomplishments.
Above Left: On March 28, 2001, Javier Nino de Rivera (left), Philippe Pessereau (middle) and Tom Shelton (right), dig up 91 cow horns that have been buried on October 3rd of last year.
Above Right: Close-up of female cow horns packed with finished Preparation 500.
Special Report:
Joseph Phelps Vineyard's experimenting
By Philippe Pessereau Viticulturist
At Joseph Phelps Vineyards, our philosophy is to maintain and preserve the natural vineyard environment. While this goal is essential for present vineyard practices, it will have an even more profound effect on the development of maturing vineyards in the future. In order to achieve this, we continue to build upon the sustainable vineyard practices used since the early 1980's by slowly and steadily embracing a style of farming known as "Biodynamic Agriculture".
WHAT IS BIODYNAMIC AGRICULTURE?
Biodynamic agriculture was put forth by Rudolf Steiner in 1924 and is one of the oldest forms of organic agriculture used today. Biodynamic farming is a system of agriculture in which the farm is designed to be a self-contained organism. Combining natural farming practices with biodynamic preparations and the farm's own resources create a modern and ecologically sound system tailored to the specific conditions of its locale. This approach is excellent for utilizing and enhancing the unique capacities of the terroir of each site.
THE FOUR KEY ELEMENTS
Biodynamic agriculture rests upon an ecological foundation of four key elements:
By farming ecologically, we first respect and work with the forces of nature. Secondly, in biodynamic agriculture, we only use natural products such as compost and preparations that are derived from plants, animals or minerals. The preparations and compost work by stimulating and encouraging the natural forces already existent.
Biodynamic farming does away with all synthetically and chemically made products, but does allow the universal use of sulphur, a natural ingredient of soils, for the treatment of mildew.
(It is important to note here that during the winemaking process we continue to rely upon the use of modest amounts of sulphur dioxide in accordance with fine winemaking traditions around the world.)
THE PREPARATIONS
Application of the preparations will vary according to local conditions, but the timing is crucial. In adherence to biodynamic principles, compost preparations are applied in the fall, 500 is applied both during the fall and winter, and 501 is applied during spring and early summer. It is important to apply 500 at the end of the day, while 501 is applied at daybreak.
SOLAR AND LUNAR RHYTHMS
To further stimulate the forces of nature, biodynamic farming is implemented in conjunction with solar and lunar rhythms. For example, the making of preparations 500 and 501 is based on the solar rhythm (equinoxes).
In addition, it is possible to strengthen the influences those rhythms have upon plants by farming in accordance with the biodynamic calendar. The "Stella Natura" calendar is published yearly by the Bio-Dynamic Farming and Garden- ing Association. For each day, it indicates which plant part is stimulated as the moon travels across the sky. As it passes in front of certain constellations, the moon and other celestial bodies stimulate forces which exert influence on earth.
As we slowly but steadily embrace this type of farming, we patiently gain confidence on how to apply and tailor these principles to each site. We believe that through the preservation of soil health we can improve grapevine health and in turn produce higher quality fruit to achieve higher quality wine while respecting the environment.
FREESTONE VINEYARD
Our new Freestone property in Sonoma County is an example of the application of these principles. Following our standard practice of planting vineyards without the use of pesticides, herbicides or fumigants, Freestone is being organically farmed. Next year, when it is ready for its first application of Preparations 500 and 501, it will be biodynamically farmed as well.
The early morning cacophony of weed-wackers, tractors and wind machines are reliable indicators of the return of spring. Judging from the intensity of early blooming plants and the push of vines into warm afternoons, I can report a beautiful, and thus far trouble-free beginning to the 2001 growing season. At this point in the season, frost and damaging, late spring rains head the list of natural challenges, but this year vintners are particularly concerned over the northerly migration of the glassy-winged sharpshooter, an insect that carries a virus that is deadly to grape vines.
Xylella Fastidiosa is the Latin name for the bacteria that causes Pierce's Disease. The traditional vector for PD in Napa County is a miniscule and relatively inefficient insect named the blue-green sharpshooter. In comparison to its blue-green cousin, the larger glassy-winged sharpshooter has been described as a B-52 bomber capable of reaching every grape vine in Napa Valley. Unfortunately, there are no known cures for Pierce's Disease and while research toward a remedy continues, there remains an urgent need to interdict the glassy-winged sharpshooter and prevent its migration beyond current points of infestation. Typically, glassy-winged sharpshooters migrate via importation of ornamental host plants from infested areas. Consequently, the inspection and treatment of plants prior to export is the best available preventative measure. Inspection, however, is costly, and two new bills before the California state legislature would mandate industry funding.
The first bill would create a $3.00 per thousand dollar "gate tax" on all grapes grown in California. Paid by growers, this tax would be administered by a board of directors appointed by California Secretary of Agriculture, Bill Lyons. This bill is expected to raise approximately 5 million dollars per year and will be in addition to significant state and federal funding, which exceeds 40 million dollars in the current fiscal year.
Napa County, be-cause of its relatively high concentration of vineyard land and historically high incidence of Xylella Fastidiosa along riparian corridors, has initiated a work plan that goes beyond state requirements and calls for the inspection of all green plant material entering the county. The cost of this work plan requires additional funding provided for under a district bill currently before the legislature. The Napa County bill would expand upon current legislation related to phylloxera replants and calls for a $20.00 per acre assessment on all vineyard land.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards supports passage of both measures. Pierce's Disease destroyed the grape growing industry in Anaheim at the turn of the century and has severely threatened the viability of Temecula today. The introduction of the glassy-winged sharpshooter to Napa Valley would be a disaster that none wish to contemplate. Interdiction through inspection is costly, but necessary.
Fortunately, leaders of environmental and grape growing organizations are united through the knowledge that preventative measures are far more desirable than the only current means of eradication, which involves spraying. Grape growers in Napa County are committed to environmentally sensitive farming practices including sustainable, organic and biodynamic approaches. I can think of no better remedy than the age-old adage that "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."
Proposed California Coast Appellation
Historically, American wine produced and marketed to compete on the strength of brand quality is a recent phenomenon. We can loosely date the expansion of brand-focused wines from Napa Valley to the mid-sixties with the advent of the Robert Mondavi winery. During these early years the relationship between regional wine style and vineyard habitat (the French would call it "terroir") was neither fully explored nor clearly understood. Consequently, wine producers relied upon varietal composition to differentiate their products. For the American consumer, the name of the grape was more important than where it was grown, unlike the European model which emphasizes the growing region over the grape variety.
As wine industry knowledge and experience evolved, reliance upon varietal composition as a determinant of quality became less and less satisfying. Increasingly, the association of wine style with specific growing regions became a critical point of differentiation for wine producers and consumers. The American model began to evolve along traditional European lines and AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) gained marketing significance. In Napa Valley, producers came to rely upon smaller AVAs such as the Stags Leap District, Rutherford and Oakville in conjunction with the Napa Valley AVA.
The current AVA system is less evolved than its European counterparts, but authenticity within the system has been progressive. Already, vintners and consumers have discovered value in the difference between wine styles that our nascent AVA system is attempting to provide. Consequently, there is a real danger in AVA proposals or petitions that devalue the AVA system by subrogating geographic authenticity to values that are purely market driven.
The application for a California Coast viticultural area, which is currently before the BATF, is one example of a potential setback for the AVA system. If approved, the California Coast designation would combine the North Coast, Central Coast and South Coast designations
into a mega-appellation stretching from Mendocino County to the Mexican border. This new AVA would reach up to 50 miles inland and incorporate more than 14 million acres of land
over a stretch of 22,000 square miles. The proposed California Coast designation is simply too broadly defined and encompasses too many diverse terroirs to recommend it as a significant AVA.
Aside from the obvious objections related to scope, a California Coast AVA would also devalue the significance of the "estate-bottled" designation. Under current rules a wine must be grown, produced and bottled within a single AVA to qualify as estate bottled. Such a narrowly defined intent would surely be misunderstood by consumers when a wine, under the California Coast petition, could be grown in Temecula, bottled in Mendocino and still qualify as an "estate bottled" product.
A proposal very similar to the California Coast failed in 1997 and the current petition deserves the same fate.
Phelps Preferred:
Two New Wine Clubs Available to Phelps
By Molly Britton
June, 2001 will mark the sixth anniversary of Phelps Preferred, and I am delighted to announce the formation of two new wine programs, the Flagship Club and Collectors' Club. Along with the Phelps Preferred original program, we now offer three distinct JPV wine packages to choose from.
PHELPS PREFERRED FLAGSHIP CLUB
Receive six bottles of each red wine produced annually, including 1998 Merlot, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999 Le Mistral and 1998 Syrah. Shipments in 2001 are scheduled for spring and fall. Additionally, members will receive six bottles of 1999 Insignia and 1999 Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon upon their release in September, 2002.
Total cost for 2001 including Insignia and Backus Cabernet is $1863.60.
PHELPS PREFERRED COLLECTORS' CLUB
Receive 12 bottles each of the highest quality premium wines produced annually, as selected by our winemaker. In 2001 this will include 1998 Syrah and 1999 Ovation Chardonnay. Both cases will be shipped in May. Additionally, Collectors' Club members will receive one case of 1999 Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and one case of 1999 Insignia upon their release in September, 2002. Total cost for 2001 is $3141.60.
PHELPS PREFERRED ORIGINAL PROGRAM
Receive four seasonal shipments per year of a variety of Phelps wines, including red, white and dessert wines. Each shipment contains two to four bottles and does not exceed $100.
Please note: Although Insignia is not included in the automatic quarterly shipments, members will continue to receive futures offers and presell programs for the wine.
Ongoing benefits of club membership include a 20% discount on all purchases made at the winery including mixed cases, single bottles and older vintages. Special privileges include discounted tours and tastings as well as invitations to exclusive club events both at the winery and around the country.
Please be aware that we can only ship wine to the following states: AK, CA, CO, IA, ID, IL, LA, MN, MO, MT, ND, NE, NH, NM, NV, OR, RI, WA, WI, WV.
If you would like to discuss any of the Phelps Preferred programs, including a breakdown of charges, please contact me at 800.707.5789, extension 727 or at preferred@jpvwines.com.
New Releases:
Spring Release Wines Include 1998 Insignia
Grapes for the 2000 Sauvignon Blanc were harvested from our Spring Valley ranch at an average 23.0º Brix, with 30% of the blend fermented in small oak barrels and given three months lees contact. The remaining 70% was fermented in stainless steel tanks and held five months in German oak ovals. After blending with 5% Spring Valley Semillon, the wine was bottled in March, 2001.
CRAIG WILLIAMS' WINEMAKER NOTES
The long, 2000 growing season was a roller coaster ride of temperature highs and lows, with many vintners picking from August to November, a time span causing both mental and physical fatigue on the part of vineyard and production crews. Nevertheless, overall fruit quality was extremely high despite a heat spell in June, a mid-September cold snap, more heat at the end of September and showers in mid-October. (And we're not even counting the 5.2 earthquake in September!) A warming trend finally allowed the harvest to conclude at the end of October. Don Wallace of Dry Creek Vineyard summed it up perfectly: "If I had to say one thing about this year, it would be that this harvest was a lot harder on us than it was on the grapes!"
Sauvignon Blanc, an early ripener, escaped most of the meteorological ups and downs, with sugar and acid levels developing under near-ideal conditions.
The resulting wine is crisp and fruity, with refreshing aromas and flavors and excellent acidity. It is a classic example of this versatile, pungent varietal.
>
The 1998 Insignia is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot, primarily from estate-owned vineyards in Stag's Leap and Rutherford, with additional fruit coming from independent growers in Rutherford, Carneros and Coombsville.
CRAIG WILLIAMS' WINEMAKER NOTES
When a wine is as successful as the 1997 Insignia, how do you compare the subsequent vintage to it? What are the chances of two consecutive wines scoring 96 in both the Wine Spectator and the Wine Advocate, and of being rated the No. 5 Wine of the Year in the
Wine Spectator?
The question is a rhetorical one, of course, but we can say this. In a vintage that was characterized by problematical weather conditions and low crop yields, there was no compromise in the quality of the 1998 Insignia. (And Robert Parker gave it a great review.)
After careful crop thinning in the vineyard and barrel aging in the cellar, small, flavorful lots displaying only the highest aroma and flavor profiles were combined and repeatedly tasted to determine the final blend. This rigorous selection process reduced case production 20% from the previous year, but the result is a wine of remarkable quality especially for a vintage that provided much less in raw materials. With dark, saturated purple color and aromas of spice, oak and cassis, the 1998 Insignia is full-bodied and well-balanced, with sweet tannins framing a layered finish. It is a generous, compelling wine which will almost certainly take its place among the best reds of the vintage.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards
1998 INSIGNIA PROPRIETARY RED WINE
NAPA
91
1999 INSIGNIA PROPRIETARY RED WINE
NAPA
(93-96)
1997 BACKUS
NAPA
93
1999 BACKUS
NAPA
(93-96)
Perhaps an even greater achievement [than the 1997], the 1998 Insignia is not up to the level of the 1997, but it is a fabulous wine from what was a far more challenging vintage. More evolved than the 1997 with a saturated ruby/purple color, it possesses a sumptuous bouquet of smoke, cedar, licorice and cassis. Another great Insignia in the making is the 1999. This fabulously concentrated, low acid yet super-endowed wine should rival the compelling 1997.
From a hillside vineyard overlooking the Oakville District, Phelps produces small quantities of their single vineyard Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. The sensational 1997 . . . displays great fruit intensity in its huge, thick, viscous flavors redolent with black currants, new saddle leather, spice box, and toasty oak. Because of the difficulties in 1998, no Backus vineyard was produced. However, the 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard may turn out to be as fabulous as both the 1997 and 1994. It is an astonishingly rich, full-bodied, super extracted, unctuously textured endeavor with layers of mineral-infused black cherry and cassis fruit . . .
James Laube's Top-Scoring rhône-style Reds and Whites from California:
JOSEPH PHELPS
Syrah Napa Valley 199794
Exotic, rich and polished, with plum, blackberry, wild berry, sage, roasted red pepper and beef notes. Creamy oak finish.
JOSEPH PHELPS
Viognier Napa Valley 1999
94
Intense peach, butter, floral and vanilla flavors are viscous and rich, long and detailed.
December 2000
JOSEPH PHELPS VINEYARDS 1997 Napa Valley Backus Vineyard. The deep, complex aromas of plums, loamy earth, currants and caramelized oak tones come complete with rich, ripe, concentrated fruit. Full and supple in feel with a hint of suppleness set against moderate tannic astringency for grip, this very special, densely packed effort has plenty of room for growth and should be set aside for a half dozen years or more of patient cellaring and then partnered with your favorite beef or lamb roast preparations.
Craig Williams celebrates twenty-five years
of winemaking at Joseph Phelps Vineyards
Craig Williams, winemaker and executive vice-president for Joseph Phelps Vineyards, is celebrating his 25th anniversary with the company this year, and for much of that time has been a guiding force behind the research and development programs at JPV. He probably wouldn't admit that, as his unassuming manner usually cedes the spotlight to others, but in fact Craig is one of California's premier winemakers with an impressive track record of success. Craig was hired at Joseph Phelps Vineyards in 1976 at the age of 26 to assist winemaker Walter Schug. He took over red winemaking in 1980, and when Walter left to start his own winery prior to the '83 harvest, Craig was officially promoted to winemaker in charge of all wine production.
In those early days Craig describes himself as being on a steep learning curve, both as a student of winemaking and grapegrowing, with very little known about the relationship between region and wine quality. With a degree from U.C. Davis in fermentation science, Craig was well educated in the technology of winemaking but had little experience in analyzing less pragmatic data. He sees his greatest accomplishment as having bridged that gap.
"It seems so obvious now to say that wine quality is directly related to where and how the grapes are grown, but believe me, in the late seventies and early eighties the idea was revolutionary, at least in this country. Europe of course had been aware of it for centuries. I felt strongly that we needed to be investing in Cabernet vineyards, and Joe agreed. In 1983 he bought 35 acres on Manley Lane in the Rutherford benchlands. The importance of that purchase was first observed with the 1989 Insignia, which included 79% Manley Lane fruit as part of the blend and raised the wine to a new level of quality."
Joe subsequently purchased 35 acres in the Stag's Leap District in 1983, another 13 acres contiguous to the Stag's Leap property in 1986, and in 1997 signed a long-term lease with the Barboza family for 18 acres, also in Stag's Leap. This was in addition to the Backus vineyard in Oakville, which Joe had leased in 1975. At that time the 45 acre parcel had 6.75 acres planted to vines, but in December of 1996 Joe purchased the property outright and developed additional vineyards which today total 21 acres.
From its humble beginnings in 1973, when 2900 cases of Cab-ernet Sauvignon were produced from fruit purchased from an independent grower, today JPV's portfolio includes 140 acres of estate-owned (or leased) Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon.
And this, Craig sees, as his greatest contribution, although he is quick to qualify it. "Our success has been due to the early recognition of the importance of regionality in the brand, which allowed us to be quality driven rather than market driven. I was perhaps the spark which ignited this concept, but without Joe Phelps' innovative thinking, Bulmaro Montes's determination to improve vineyard practices, and Tom Shelton's commitment to excellence in the marketplace, we would not be where we are today. This has definitely been a team effort."
There's no question that the effort has paid off, as demonstrated by the success of Insignia, a blend which is considered a reference point for Bordelais varieties grown in California. This success is directly attributable to JPV's early recognition of — and investment in — prime vineyard land that made possible a new level of quality in Insignia at production levels similar to the great growths of Bordeaux.
Not content to rest on his laurels, however, Craig is once again branching out into unexplored territory. A new vineyard project in Sonoma County has him overseeing the production of 18,000 cases of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Also in the developmental stage is a 100 acre Cabernet vineyard in south Napa.
When asked what he envisions giving him personal satisfaction in the years to come, his wish list is very specific: "Seeing the Sonoma project come to fruition and be successful; helping guide the company during this phase of vineyard development in Napa; and improving farming practices so that we not only insure quality in the vineyards, but are good environmental stewards as well."
"Perhaps most important to me though is an old lesson from my Boy Scout days: when I
am an old man and have to turn the keys over, I'd like to be perceived as having left this
place better than when I found it." There seems little doubt that this will be the least of
his accomplishments.
Above Left: On March 28, 2001, Javier Nino de Rivera (left), Philippe Pessereau (middle) and Tom Shelton (right), dig up 91 cow horns that have been buried on October 3rd of last year.
Above Right: Close-up of female cow horns packed with finished Preparation 500.
Special Report:
Joseph Phelps Vineyard's experimenting
with biodynamic farming in Backus Vineyard
and areas of Spring Valley - new organic
Freestone Vineyard will be Biodynamic -
farmed in 2002
By Philippe Pessereau Viticulturist At Joseph Phelps Vineyards, our philosophy is to maintain and preserve the natural vineyard environment. While this goal is essential for present vineyard practices, it will have an even more profound effect on the development of maturing vineyards in the future. In order to achieve this, we continue to build upon the sustainable vineyard practices used since the early 1980's by slowly and steadily embracing a style of farming known as "Biodynamic Agriculture".
WHAT IS BIODYNAMIC AGRICULTURE?
Biodynamic agriculture was put forth by Rudolf Steiner in 1924 and is one of the oldest forms of organic agriculture used today. Biodynamic farming is a system of agriculture in which the farm is designed to be a self-contained organism. Combining natural farming practices with biodynamic preparations and the farm's own resources create a modern and ecologically sound system tailored to the specific conditions of its locale. This approach is excellent for utilizing and enhancing the unique capacities of the terroir of each site.
THE FOUR KEY ELEMENTS
Biodynamic agriculture rests upon an ecological foundation of four key elements:
- Biodiversity, which is achieved through companion planting, cover cropping, crop rotation and border planting such as hedges. For example, at JPV we are currently planting native plants whose flowers and nectars attract beneficial insects.
- Soil health, which includes proper levels of organic matter, good humus content
and soil microbial activity (bacteria, fungi, yeasts, protozoa, insects, earth worms,
etc). At JPV, we have produced our own biodynamic compost since 1999 to improve our soil humus. - Self-sustainability: Producing different crops generates fodder to feed grazing animals (cows, sheep, goats, horses). Self-sustainability is reached by recycling animal manure through compost-making, which is then used as a soil amendment to perpetuate soil health. Currently, we do not have any animals but are contemplating having some in the future. We bring manure from a local dairy farm to make our compost.
- Pest and Disease Prevention: Healthy plants grown on healthy soil are better fit to naturally resist pest and disease attacks. Thus, this system produces the optimal foundation for pest and disease prevention.
By farming ecologically, we first respect and work with the forces of nature. Secondly, in biodynamic agriculture, we only use natural products such as compost and preparations that are derived from plants, animals or minerals. The preparations and compost work by stimulating and encouraging the natural forces already existent.
Biodynamic farming does away with all synthetically and chemically made products, but does allow the universal use of sulphur, a natural ingredient of soils, for the treatment of mildew.
(It is important to note here that during the winemaking process we continue to rely upon the use of modest amounts of sulphur dioxide in accordance with fine winemaking traditions around the world.)
THE PREPARATIONS
Preparation 500:APPLICATION OF THE PREPARATIONS
Also known as horn manure, 500 enhances soil health. This preparation is made by packing a female cow horn with cow manure and burying it for 6 months (from fall to spring equinox).
Preparation 501:
Also known as horn silica, 501 boosts plant photosynthesis. This preparation is made by packing a female cow horn with ground silica and burying it for 6 months (from spring to fall equinox).
Compost:
Compost making is achieved using various materials. However, it is crucial to have the proper mixture of carbon- and nitrogen-containing elements. Furthermore, ideal moisture and oxygen levels are vital for good composting. In biodynamic farming, several preparations made from fermented plants are incorporated in the compost. These preparations are derived from yarrow, chamomile, stinging nettle, oak bark, dandelion and valerian. In combination, these preparations help control the compost-making process by favorably influencing the formation of stabilized humus.
Application of the preparations will vary according to local conditions, but the timing is crucial. In adherence to biodynamic principles, compost preparations are applied in the fall, 500 is applied both during the fall and winter, and 501 is applied during spring and early summer. It is important to apply 500 at the end of the day, while 501 is applied at daybreak.
SOLAR AND LUNAR RHYTHMS
To further stimulate the forces of nature, biodynamic farming is implemented in conjunction with solar and lunar rhythms. For example, the making of preparations 500 and 501 is based on the solar rhythm (equinoxes).
In addition, it is possible to strengthen the influences those rhythms have upon plants by farming in accordance with the biodynamic calendar. The "Stella Natura" calendar is published yearly by the Bio-Dynamic Farming and Garden- ing Association. For each day, it indicates which plant part is stimulated as the moon travels across the sky. As it passes in front of certain constellations, the moon and other celestial bodies stimulate forces which exert influence on earth.
As we slowly but steadily embrace this type of farming, we patiently gain confidence on how to apply and tailor these principles to each site. We believe that through the preservation of soil health we can improve grapevine health and in turn produce higher quality fruit to achieve higher quality wine while respecting the environment.
FREESTONE VINEYARD
Our new Freestone property in Sonoma County is an example of the application of these principles. Following our standard practice of planting vineyards without the use of pesticides, herbicides or fumigants, Freestone is being organically farmed. Next year, when it is ready for its first application of Preparations 500 and 501, it will be biodynamically farmed as well.
Uncorked! by Tom Shelton
Update on the Glassy-Winged Sharpshooter & Proposed California Coast Appellation Potentially Misleading to CustomersThe early morning cacophony of weed-wackers, tractors and wind machines are reliable indicators of the return of spring. Judging from the intensity of early blooming plants and the push of vines into warm afternoons, I can report a beautiful, and thus far trouble-free beginning to the 2001 growing season. At this point in the season, frost and damaging, late spring rains head the list of natural challenges, but this year vintners are particularly concerned over the northerly migration of the glassy-winged sharpshooter, an insect that carries a virus that is deadly to grape vines.
Xylella Fastidiosa is the Latin name for the bacteria that causes Pierce's Disease. The traditional vector for PD in Napa County is a miniscule and relatively inefficient insect named the blue-green sharpshooter. In comparison to its blue-green cousin, the larger glassy-winged sharpshooter has been described as a B-52 bomber capable of reaching every grape vine in Napa Valley. Unfortunately, there are no known cures for Pierce's Disease and while research toward a remedy continues, there remains an urgent need to interdict the glassy-winged sharpshooter and prevent its migration beyond current points of infestation. Typically, glassy-winged sharpshooters migrate via importation of ornamental host plants from infested areas. Consequently, the inspection and treatment of plants prior to export is the best available preventative measure. Inspection, however, is costly, and two new bills before the California state legislature would mandate industry funding.
The first bill would create a $3.00 per thousand dollar "gate tax" on all grapes grown in California. Paid by growers, this tax would be administered by a board of directors appointed by California Secretary of Agriculture, Bill Lyons. This bill is expected to raise approximately 5 million dollars per year and will be in addition to significant state and federal funding, which exceeds 40 million dollars in the current fiscal year.
Napa County, be-cause of its relatively high concentration of vineyard land and historically high incidence of Xylella Fastidiosa along riparian corridors, has initiated a work plan that goes beyond state requirements and calls for the inspection of all green plant material entering the county. The cost of this work plan requires additional funding provided for under a district bill currently before the legislature. The Napa County bill would expand upon current legislation related to phylloxera replants and calls for a $20.00 per acre assessment on all vineyard land.
Joseph Phelps Vineyards supports passage of both measures. Pierce's Disease destroyed the grape growing industry in Anaheim at the turn of the century and has severely threatened the viability of Temecula today. The introduction of the glassy-winged sharpshooter to Napa Valley would be a disaster that none wish to contemplate. Interdiction through inspection is costly, but necessary.
Fortunately, leaders of environmental and grape growing organizations are united through the knowledge that preventative measures are far more desirable than the only current means of eradication, which involves spraying. Grape growers in Napa County are committed to environmentally sensitive farming practices including sustainable, organic and biodynamic approaches. I can think of no better remedy than the age-old adage that "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure."
Proposed California Coast Appellation
Potentially Misleading to Consumers
Historically, American wine produced and marketed to compete on the strength of brand quality is a recent phenomenon. We can loosely date the expansion of brand-focused wines from Napa Valley to the mid-sixties with the advent of the Robert Mondavi winery. During these early years the relationship between regional wine style and vineyard habitat (the French would call it "terroir") was neither fully explored nor clearly understood. Consequently, wine producers relied upon varietal composition to differentiate their products. For the American consumer, the name of the grape was more important than where it was grown, unlike the European model which emphasizes the growing region over the grape variety. As wine industry knowledge and experience evolved, reliance upon varietal composition as a determinant of quality became less and less satisfying. Increasingly, the association of wine style with specific growing regions became a critical point of differentiation for wine producers and consumers. The American model began to evolve along traditional European lines and AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) gained marketing significance. In Napa Valley, producers came to rely upon smaller AVAs such as the Stags Leap District, Rutherford and Oakville in conjunction with the Napa Valley AVA.
The current AVA system is less evolved than its European counterparts, but authenticity within the system has been progressive. Already, vintners and consumers have discovered value in the difference between wine styles that our nascent AVA system is attempting to provide. Consequently, there is a real danger in AVA proposals or petitions that devalue the AVA system by subrogating geographic authenticity to values that are purely market driven.
The application for a California Coast viticultural area, which is currently before the BATF, is one example of a potential setback for the AVA system. If approved, the California Coast designation would combine the North Coast, Central Coast and South Coast designations
into a mega-appellation stretching from Mendocino County to the Mexican border. This new AVA would reach up to 50 miles inland and incorporate more than 14 million acres of land
over a stretch of 22,000 square miles. The proposed California Coast designation is simply too broadly defined and encompasses too many diverse terroirs to recommend it as a significant AVA.
Aside from the obvious objections related to scope, a California Coast AVA would also devalue the significance of the "estate-bottled" designation. Under current rules a wine must be grown, produced and bottled within a single AVA to qualify as estate bottled. Such a narrowly defined intent would surely be misunderstood by consumers when a wine, under the California Coast petition, could be grown in Temecula, bottled in Mendocino and still qualify as an "estate bottled" product.
A proposal very similar to the California Coast failed in 1997 and the current petition deserves the same fate.
Phelps Preferred:
Two New Wine Clubs Available to Phelps
Preferred Members
By Molly Britton June, 2001 will mark the sixth anniversary of Phelps Preferred, and I am delighted to announce the formation of two new wine programs, the Flagship Club and Collectors' Club. Along with the Phelps Preferred original program, we now offer three distinct JPV wine packages to choose from.
PHELPS PREFERRED FLAGSHIP CLUB
Receive six bottles of each red wine produced annually, including 1998 Merlot, 1998 Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999 Le Mistral and 1998 Syrah. Shipments in 2001 are scheduled for spring and fall. Additionally, members will receive six bottles of 1999 Insignia and 1999 Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon upon their release in September, 2002.
Total cost for 2001 including Insignia and Backus Cabernet is $1863.60.
PHELPS PREFERRED COLLECTORS' CLUB
Receive 12 bottles each of the highest quality premium wines produced annually, as selected by our winemaker. In 2001 this will include 1998 Syrah and 1999 Ovation Chardonnay. Both cases will be shipped in May. Additionally, Collectors' Club members will receive one case of 1999 Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon and one case of 1999 Insignia upon their release in September, 2002. Total cost for 2001 is $3141.60.
PHELPS PREFERRED ORIGINAL PROGRAM
Receive four seasonal shipments per year of a variety of Phelps wines, including red, white and dessert wines. Each shipment contains two to four bottles and does not exceed $100.
Please note: Although Insignia is not included in the automatic quarterly shipments, members will continue to receive futures offers and presell programs for the wine.
Ongoing benefits of club membership include a 20% discount on all purchases made at the winery including mixed cases, single bottles and older vintages. Special privileges include discounted tours and tastings as well as invitations to exclusive club events both at the winery and around the country.
Please be aware that we can only ship wine to the following states: AK, CA, CO, IA, ID, IL, LA, MN, MO, MT, ND, NE, NH, NM, NV, OR, RI, WA, WI, WV.
If you would like to discuss any of the Phelps Preferred programs, including a breakdown of charges, please contact me at 800.707.5789, extension 727 or at preferred@jpvwines.com.
New Releases:
Spring Release Wines Include 1998 Insignia
and 2000 Sauvignon Blanc
Grapes for the 2000 Sauvignon Blanc were harvested from our Spring Valley ranch at an average 23.0º Brix, with 30% of the blend fermented in small oak barrels and given three months lees contact. The remaining 70% was fermented in stainless steel tanks and held five months in German oak ovals. After blending with 5% Spring Valley Semillon, the wine was bottled in March, 2001.
CRAIG WILLIAMS' WINEMAKER NOTES
The long, 2000 growing season was a roller coaster ride of temperature highs and lows, with many vintners picking from August to November, a time span causing both mental and physical fatigue on the part of vineyard and production crews. Nevertheless, overall fruit quality was extremely high despite a heat spell in June, a mid-September cold snap, more heat at the end of September and showers in mid-October. (And we're not even counting the 5.2 earthquake in September!) A warming trend finally allowed the harvest to conclude at the end of October. Don Wallace of Dry Creek Vineyard summed it up perfectly: "If I had to say one thing about this year, it would be that this harvest was a lot harder on us than it was on the grapes!"
Sauvignon Blanc, an early ripener, escaped most of the meteorological ups and downs, with sugar and acid levels developing under near-ideal conditions.
The resulting wine is crisp and fruity, with refreshing aromas and flavors and excellent acidity. It is a classic example of this versatile, pungent varietal.
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The 1998 Insignia is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot, primarily from estate-owned vineyards in Stag's Leap and Rutherford, with additional fruit coming from independent growers in Rutherford, Carneros and Coombsville.
CRAIG WILLIAMS' WINEMAKER NOTES
When a wine is as successful as the 1997 Insignia, how do you compare the subsequent vintage to it? What are the chances of two consecutive wines scoring 96 in both the Wine Spectator and the Wine Advocate, and of being rated the No. 5 Wine of the Year in the
Wine Spectator?
The question is a rhetorical one, of course, but we can say this. In a vintage that was characterized by problematical weather conditions and low crop yields, there was no compromise in the quality of the 1998 Insignia. (And Robert Parker gave it a great review.)
After careful crop thinning in the vineyard and barrel aging in the cellar, small, flavorful lots displaying only the highest aroma and flavor profiles were combined and repeatedly tasted to determine the final blend. This rigorous selection process reduced case production 20% from the previous year, but the result is a wine of remarkable quality especially for a vintage that provided much less in raw materials. With dark, saturated purple color and aromas of spice, oak and cassis, the 1998 Insignia is full-bodied and well-balanced, with sweet tannins framing a layered finish. It is a generous, compelling wine which will almost certainly take its place among the best reds of the vintage.
The Wine Advocate
Joseph Phelps Vineyards
1998 INSIGNIA PROPRIETARY RED WINE
NAPA
91
1999 INSIGNIA PROPRIETARY RED WINE
NAPA
(93-96)
1997 BACKUS
NAPA
93
1999 BACKUS
NAPA
(93-96)
Perhaps an even greater achievement [than the 1997], the 1998 Insignia is not up to the level of the 1997, but it is a fabulous wine from what was a far more challenging vintage. More evolved than the 1997 with a saturated ruby/purple color, it possesses a sumptuous bouquet of smoke, cedar, licorice and cassis. Another great Insignia in the making is the 1999. This fabulously concentrated, low acid yet super-endowed wine should rival the compelling 1997.
From a hillside vineyard overlooking the Oakville District, Phelps produces small quantities of their single vineyard Backus Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. The sensational 1997 . . . displays great fruit intensity in its huge, thick, viscous flavors redolent with black currants, new saddle leather, spice box, and toasty oak. Because of the difficulties in 1998, no Backus vineyard was produced. However, the 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon Backus Vineyard may turn out to be as fabulous as both the 1997 and 1994. It is an astonishingly rich, full-bodied, super extracted, unctuously textured endeavor with layers of mineral-infused black cherry and cassis fruit . . .
Wine Spectator
James Laube's Top-Scoring rhône-style Reds and Whites from California:
JOSEPH PHELPS
Syrah Napa Valley 1997
Exotic, rich and polished, with plum, blackberry, wild berry, sage, roasted red pepper and beef notes. Creamy oak finish.
JOSEPH PHELPS
Viognier Napa Valley 1999
94
Intense peach, butter, floral and vanilla flavors are viscous and rich, long and detailed.
Connoisseurs' Guide to California Wine
December 2000
JOSEPH PHELPS VINEYARDS 1997 Napa Valley Backus Vineyard. The deep, complex aromas of plums, loamy earth, currants and caramelized oak tones come complete with rich, ripe, concentrated fruit. Full and supple in feel with a hint of suppleness set against moderate tannic astringency for grip, this very special, densely packed effort has plenty of room for growth and should be set aside for a half dozen years or more of patient cellaring and then partnered with your favorite beef or lamb roast preparations.
