Fall 2009
JPV’s 37th Harvest Begins, and Ends, with Great Expectations
Jose Luis Vargas, on the tractor, has been with JPV since 1988.
He is a budding supervisor and foreman for the Yountville vineyard.
By Damian Parker, Director of Winemaking
The 2009 harvest started like each of the past 37 seasons at Joseph Phelps Vineyards: full of expectation! Over the years the vineyards have changed, processing equipment has been modernized, winemaking techniques improved, and the winemaking team has grown and evolved. You’d think such constant change might lead to confusion, but having been an employee at Joseph Phelps since 1981 I can tell you that that has not been the case. Quite the contrary: Change continues to bring renewed focus, fresh ideas and inspiring challenges. The excitement and adrenalin of a new vintage is what gets us up in the morning.
This year we continued our focus on vine balance throughout the growing season, from pruning techniques to watering strategies. Over the years we have learned that working in concert with Mother Nature is far better than trying to control her, and for the most part she was very good to us in 2009.
As noted by Philippe Pessereau on page 2, we are seeing great color, tannin and flavor development, and quality across the board has been exceptional. The Petit Verdot and Malbec lots appear to be some of the best we’ve ever produced.
Harvest was moving along nicely until October 13th, when a storm lasting over three days dropped 3.5 to 5 inches of rain in Napa Valley. This is a sufficiently rare occurrence that the last time it happened was in 1962.
This year it was mostly Cabernet Sauvignon that was affected, and fortunately, because of its thicker skin, the varietal can handle some rain. But how much is too much? The biggest concern after rain is mold growth. Ironically, when we were still making late harvest wines in the 80’s, we would pray for weather like this to get the botrytis cinerea mold growing in our Riesling vineyards. However, we definitely do NOT want it in our Cabernet.
On October 16th, after the vineyards had dried out, we pulled leaves to open up the canopy for better airflow and thinned any compromised clusters. We started picking again on Oct. 21st and finished harvest Oct. 29th. It’s too early to say how the post-rain lots will turn out, but from what we see in the fermentor (see Ashley’s comments below), they are looking good.
With a ten-week-long harvest, the excitement and adrenalin of 2009 has run its course. The production team of Philippe, German, Ashley, Sarah, David, Kelly and all the cellar and vineyard crew have once again done a superb job of ensuring that, despite all the changes and challenges from the weather, this was one of the smoothest harvests ever. Congratulations to everyone for a job well done! I’m already looking forward to next year . . .
Harvest Update from Philippe Pessereau & Ashley Hepworth
Philippe Pessereau
Director of Vineyard Operations
I’m happy to report that with improved rainfall over the past two years, 2009 surprised and surpassed quality expectations. The season began with good rains which lasted into early May and totaled over three inches. Such late rainfall recharged the soil which was both beneficial and welcome since in the previous two years (2007 and 2008), precipitation ended prematurely in March.
Vine buds started to burst at the normal time (end of March/ early April) and then frost season arrived, which was relatively uneventful. With the first warm temperatures arriving in May (including a heat spell of over 100°F on May 17th during Insignia weekend), the vine canopy showed a good growth spurt. This was also due to the proper amount of moisture in the soil. Bloom started in the third week of May and continued into early June due to cooler diurnal temperatures and overcast days.
While June began with cool temperatures, it ended with warmer ones which allowed for good berry set and seed hardening. We actually experienced larger than normal berry diameter with our Backus Cabernet and St. Helena Malbec, as well as more berries per cluster in our St. Helena Petit Verdot vineyard.
With a proper leaf canopy now in place, we not only had enough photosynthetic potential but also sufficient shade protection for grape berries. Such a protection is critical during heat spikes since the berry skin can become sunburned.
Interestingly, summertime night temperatures remained cool even though 19 days reached over 100°F. During each of the seven heat spikes this year (which, although short, were more numerous than usual) the night time cool-down allowed for not only better vine anabolism, but also enhanced color concentration.
Due to cooler growing months, veraison began during the first two weeks of August. We noticed a difference in berry coloring among the vine rows between the morning facing side and the noon or afternoon side of the row. The side with gentle sun incidence accumulated red pigment faster than the other side. Eventually, however, veraison completed on both sides of the vine row due to consistently warm temperatures in August. This trend persisted through September and allowed for good color development while still having good acid levels thanks to the cool nights.
Although sugar levels at harvest rarely hovered over 25° Brix, the color concentration and flavor development were good indicators that fruit maturity had been achieved.
Ahsley Hepworth
Winemaker
We picked the Backus Vineyard from September 11th to 23rd, and fruit quality was exceptional. Deep color developed in the fermentors early on, followed by excellent tannin structure and balance. Currently the Backus lots are all pressed off and undergoing malolactic fermentation in barrel.
As of this writing, we are still in the process of picking the last blocks in Banca Dorada and the St. Helena home ranch.
Harvest concluded on October 29th this year which is later than the last two vintages.
Currently the cellar is full of Cabernet grapes and as harvest winds down we continue to carefully work each separate fermentor to extract the beauty and intensity from each vineyard site.
Overall the quality of the 2009 harvest is very exciting, with excellent color and balance being the two defining characteristics.
A Message From Bill Phelps
November 5, 2009
Because almost two months remain in 2009, any effort to view the year in retrospect is subject to later revision. Nevertheless, the fascinating and often tumultuous events of 2009 merit some comment and review even prior to the end of the year.
The historic economic turmoil of the past 18 months has touched every one of us, and Joseph Phelps Vineyards and Freestone Vineyards have certainly not been immune. Even in this difficult environment, however, there have been bright spots: we have been fortunate to welcome many, many visitors to JPV and Freestone; our wine clubs remain vibrant and growing; and the reception for Freestone wines in the marketplace has been enthusiastic and gratifying.
A personal highlight for me was my visit to Bordeaux for Vinexpo. As chronicled by Rob Baxter elsewhere in this issue, Vinexpo was an amazing opportunity to meet and taste with many of the leaders in the world of wine. I will never forget the warm hospitality with which we were greeted by the owners and managers of some of Bordeaux’s finest chateaux. To me, our reception illustrated the high regard in which Napa and Sonoma wines are held by the world’s greatest vintners.
I’ve been able to travel quite a bit this year to meet our customers, partners in trade, and members of the wine press. Every time, I am both honored and humbled to hear so many wonderful comments and accolades for our wines and our people.
While we can’t predict when the current economic difficulties will abate, I can assure you that we have wonderful wines aging in the cellar, in barrels and in bottles. These wines, and our people, give me much confidence that bright and happy days lie ahead.
Freestone Vineyards: 2009 a Year to Remember
By Theresa Heredia, Winemaker
Freestone’s 2009 harvest crew. Winemaker Theresa Heredia is third from left in the front row.
It is October 21st and the production team has heaved a big sigh of relief today with the arrival of our last load of fruit, approximately four tons of Pastorale Chardonnay. The season is officially over!
The 2009 harvest was cool, slow and steady, but the grapes and clusters were small and ripened quickly, yielding wines with tremendous aroma and overall balance. Berry set was small this year due to a hot spell during flowering, thus the crop size and yields were small, producing wines with good concentration and tannin.
Because the summer was moderate and the weather during harvest was warm but not hot, we managed to hit the bull’s-eye with sugar and acid levels right where we wanted them. Consequently, the wines are all between 12.5 and 14% alcohol, with great acidity and beautifully balanced phenolic structure. Because of the relatively low alcohol levels, the wines all have enticing red and black fruit and floral aromas adding to the complexity in the glass.
The season began for us in August with the arrival of our long-awaited harvest interns. This year we had a fantastic and experienced group of interns from several parts of the world, including Richard Bord from Paris, France; Natalie Dale from Novato, CA; Adrien Despres from the north of France; Sorcha Gillen from Western Australia; Paul-Gabriel Guyard from the Champagne region of France; Andy Laird from Santa Rosa, CA; Joel Robledo Jr. from Windsor, CA and son of our vineyard supervisor; and Jenna Rousseau from Arizona, doing her very first harvest. Each one of them has contributed a unique perspective and different level of experience, which keeps the production staff abreast of cultural differences and new winemaking techniques from around the world.
Pinot Noir harvest got off to an early start on September 1st, but the moderate weather allowed us to pick leisurely until a small heat spike during the 3rd week of September. We scrambled a bit during that week but still managed to get all of the Pinot Noir harvested at or near our target sugar and acid levels.
Freestone Estate Chardonnay held on well in the moderate weather and continued ripening evenly until it was picked on September 22nd.
The 2009 vintage – long, slow, gradual, beautiful – will become a winemaking year to remember, and we have high expectations of meeting the goals of the Freestone Vineyards mission statement, which is to produce naturally-made and natively-fermented wines with balance, finesse and coastal characteristics that are authentic to the site.
Freestone Winery Hosts First Annual Fall Release Festival
By Stephen Pavy, Director of Hospitality
|
|
The relaxed atmosphere of western Sonoma County was very much in evidence on October 10th when 230 Freestone Private Collection club members enjoyed perfect fall weather and an afternoon of music, artisanal foods and the newly-released 2007 vintage Freestone wines.
Members from the Bay Area and as far south as San Jose made the drive to bask in the autumn sunshine and visit with Freestone locals as well as winery staff and an assortment of friendly canines.
Macy Blackman, a western Sonoma County resident, provided the keyboard and vocals for the afternoon. Macy specializes in New Orleans-style R&B and has worked with Dr. John, The Drifters, The Coasters, Patti Smith and Keith Richards among others, as well as his own Rockin’ Rebels. His local wisdom is “If this band doesn’t make you move your feet, it’s amazing that you got here at all.” And believe me, Macy got people moving and tapping their feet. Next year, we’ll probably need a dance floor!
In the midst of picking grapes, Winemaker Theresa Heredia made a brief appearance to give visitors an update on the harvest. Bill and Andrea Phelps, Damian Parker, Director of Winemaking and other Freestone Vineyards staff were in attendance, as well as Brad Schneider, Manager of the Freestone Vineyards Guest Center, Duane Harris, Director of Customer Service and Patty, Neta, Corban and Val from Customer Service. Stephen Pavy, Jan Vierra and Nicole Boutilier were also there to lend logistical support and make sure everything ran smoothly.
The success of this year’s event all but assures that the Fall Release Festival will become an annual affair. For more information on how to join the Freestone Private Collection wine club go to http://www.freestonevineyards.com/wineclub/.
2009 Fall Releases
2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, Backus Vineyard
 |
BLEND & GRAPE SOURCE: 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Petit Verdot and 2% Malbec from the estate-owned Backus Vineyard in Oakville.
WINEMAKER'S NOTES: Grapes were harvested between October 1–8, 2006, at an average 24.7° Brix, fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged 24 months in new French oak barrels manufactured by Taransaud, Dargaud Jaegle and Darnajou. The wine was bottled without filtration in January, 2009.
Aromatics in the 2006 Backus are layered with classic notes of crushed rock, ripe blackberry, plum, dark chocolate and violet. The full mid-palate is dominated by flavors of mineral, mocha and dense fruit. Incredible concentration, structure and depth are the backbone of this wine and lead to the rich, long finish.Click here to read more.
2006 Insignia
 |
BLEND & GRAPE SOURCES: 95% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot from 100% estate owned Napa Valley vineyards which break down as follows:
South Napa, 33% (Suscol Vyd.)Stags Leap District, 29% (Barboza Vyd. 17% and Las Rocas Vyd. 12%)
Rutherford, 20% (Banca Dorada Vyd.)
St. Helena, 10% (Spring Valley Ranch Vyds.)
Oak Knoll District, 8% (Yountville Vyd.)
WINEMAKER'S NOTES: Grapes were harvested between October 7–27, 2006, at an average 24.5° Brix, fermented in stainless steel tanks, then aged 24 months in 100% new French oak barrels from coopers Taransaud, Dargaud Jaegle, Nadalie, Demptos, Marcel Cadet and Sylvain.The opaque, inky color of the 2006 Insignia is followed by concentrated aromatics of lush black fruit, graphite, coffee, dark cocoa powder, licorice, and cola syrup. The dense flavors and balanced tannins integrate beautifully for a long, layered finish.
Click here to read more.
2008 Sauvignon Blanc
 |
BLEND & GRAPE SOURCES: 100% estate-grown Sauvignon Blanc from our Spring Valley Ranch outside of St. Helena.
WINEMAKER'S NOTES: Grapes were harvested between August 14–28, 2008, at an average 22.9° Brix, then barrel-fermented and aged for eight months in new French oak puncheons (32%) and one- to two-year-old French oak barrels and puncheons (68%). Coopers were Dargaud Jaegle, Billon, Damy and Ermitage. The lees were stirred both during and after fermentation and the wine was bottled in June, 2009.
This year’s Sauvignon Blanc is distinctive for its aromatics of lemon curd, honeydew and lime blossom, all of which contribute to freshness on the palate. The minerality, bright fruit, fine texture and length create mouth-watering, lingering flavors.
Click here to read more.
Meet JPV’s Personable
Customer Service Staff
By Duane Harris, Director of Customer Service
From left to right: Neta Thornell, Naomi Petrick, Valerie Quillen, Patty Galvin and Corban Xavier.
The singular focus of Customer Service is to ensure that membership in the wine club is a rewarding and satisfying experience. Maintaining and fostering an ongoing relationship with Phelps Preferred members is the passion of every one of our representatives. From updating credit cards, address changes, assisting with gift orders for the holidays and answering questions about membership and wine orders, we strive for perfection. We love hearing from you and thought it might be interesting for you to hear from us! As always … we are here to serve and we appreciate your support. Call anytime!
Neta Thornell
Neta has been working in hospitality and customer service at JPV since 1990, after retiring from a 30- year career with the civil service.
She grew up in Vallejo and in 2010 will celebrate 50 years of marriage with her husband Raymond. Neta has one daughter and two grandchildren, is an accomplished quilter, and enjoys tending to over 100 rose bushes in her home in the eastern hills of Napa.
“I never dreamed I would be working this long after my retirement, Neta tells us, “but I feel privileged to be part of the Phelps family -- it doesn’t get any better than this!”
Naomi Petrick
Naomi Petrick is a recent addition to the customer service staff, although she joined JPV in 2004 as a wine educator.
Naomi grew up in Manhattan and came to the Napa Valley in 2003 to attend the Culinary Institute, where she was trained as a pastry chef. In 2006, at a wine sales and marketing class at Napa Valley College, she met her future husband, Jesse, and they were married in October of 2008. Hobbies include hiking with Jesse and spending time in the kitchen.
With all of her family on the East Coast, Naomi “feels blessed to have found myself a part of the extended family that is JPV.”
Patty Galvin
Patty graduated from UCLA as a film major, and worked as assistant editor on the Shawshank Redemption, Mosquito Coast and other major films. She joined JPV in 2005.
Her biggest passion is Dressage, and she has travelled worldwide to ride horses, most recently this past summer to the Yorkshire Riding Center in England.
Patty lives in St. Helena and reports that the newest addition to her family is Toula, a beautiful long haired German Shepherd puppy, whom she takes to training classes on a regular basis. When asked what she most enjoys about her work, Patty answered, “World class wines attract world class customers, and it’s been a pleasure getting to know our wonderful club members.”
Corban Xavier
Corban grew up in Anchorage, Alaska and was a travel agent for two years before packing up her car and “hitting the road” with a friend. “We had no idea where we were going,” she explains, “and the California wine country is where we ended up.”
Corban joined JPV in 2007 after working for the Sonoma Mission Inn and Imagery Wine Estate in Glen Ellen. She currently lives in Lake County and is kept busy with Hayden, her one year old son. Despite having limited spare time, Corban is a voracious reader.
Valerie Quillen
Valerie grew up in the San Francisco Bay Area and has an interesting work history, beginning with her first job as a firefighter in Big Sur California. She later embarked on a career as a junior analyst for World Savings and other financial institutions, and for a brief time owned a restaurant and store in the Sierra Foothills. Valerie has also had extensive training as a jazz vocalist.
She moved to the Napa Valley in 2006. “I’ve enjoyed the change from the fast paced corporate world to a less stressful environment,” she reflects. “And I love having direct contact with customers since as a corporate executive, that was missing.”
An Insignia Day Love Story
By Nicole Boutilier
 |
Paige Goodman and Stephen Maire of New York City first visited Joseph Phelps Vineyards in August of 2008, at which time Paige became a Phelps Preferred Club Member.
The couple returned to JPV on Saturday, May 16th, 2009, for Insignia Weekend. Unaware of what Stephen had planned, Paige was stunned when Stephen got down on one knee with Spring Valley Vineyard in the background, to propose. Paige said “Yes!”
"I couldn't have asked for a better engagement setting,” she told us. “Great wine, good food and friendly people to celebrate this momentous occasion – what more could you ask for? Joseph Phelps Vineyards will always be a special place for us!”
Paige is from Queens, and Stephen grew up in California’s Santa Ynez Valley. They met when they were borh working for a New York investment bank.
We wanted to share this romantic story and thank Paige and Stephen for letting Joseph Phelps Vineyards be part of such a special day. We wish them a long and happy life together.
Vinexpo: World’s Greatest Wine Fair!
By Rob Baxter, European Wine Sales Consultant
|
|
This past June, Bordeaux hosted its biennial Vinexpo wine trade fair, the world’s largest, which gathers producers, distributors and wine media from all over the world under one roof, allowing participants to take the pulse of the global wine world in all its diversity.
JPV manned its own stand within the California Wine Institute Pavilion where Bill Phelps, Mike McEvoy (Vice-President and Director of Sales and Marketing), and I were present to guide our export partners through the current range of JPV wines and debut our Freestone wines to the world.
One theme which was underlined repeatedly at the show was the like-mindedness of family-owned businesses and the close bond which we enjoy with our family-run importers. We were visited by Jan Martel from Swiss company Martel, which has been importing our wines for nearly three decades following their first ‘discovery’ of JPV in 1980. Jan’s family has been in the fine-wine business since 1876 and takes a keen interest in promoting top family-run domaines from around the world.
We also met with our Greek importer, Genka, headed by Pavlos Karacostas whose family has been importing and selling fine wine in Greece since 1938.
Given Italy’s importance as a wine producing country we are honored to have a continued presence there in the form of the Gaja family who not only import exclusively top wines but also run one of Italy’s legendary wineries.
Among the numerous press and educational events throughout the fair was the Napa Valley Vintners seminar entitled “Napa Valley: A Modern Perspective” where Bill Phelps spoke to a packed hall alongside other family winery principals Dennis Cakebread and Loren Trefethen. Bill highlighted the challenges of maintaining a family-owned Napa Valley winery in the increasingly corporate and globalized wine business.
Bill Phelps’ first visit to Vinexpo also provided the impetus to visit some of the finest chateaux in Bordeaux. The JPV team was hospitably welcomed for a luncheon at Château Cos d’Estournel in St. Estèphe by Jean-Guillaume Prats, tasted in the cellars of Château Margaux with Paul Pontallier, and was warmly received by members of the Bouard family at Château Angélus just outside the beautiful limestone village of St. Emilion.
JPV is among the few internationally recognized wineries that have a continued presence in the French market, where imported wines account for only 3% of domestic consumption. Our French importer, Vins du Monde, led by Claude Gilois, organized a dinner event during Vinexpo at which over 200 guests filled the Café Maritime to the bursting point. We were delighted that Phelps Napa Cabernet was served at this prestigious dinner.
This spirit of camaraderie/conviviality and mutual recognition that we experience in our relations with other top domaines expresses itself in an open sharing of ideas and techniques both in the vineyards and in the cellars. This eagerness to exchange is anchored in the constant quest for improvement and expression of regional character which is of paramount importance amongst the world’s greatest wineries.
Press Accolades
 |
|
|
2006 Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley Teasing with its floral, spicy cherry, wild berry and currant aromas, this is full-bodied, firm and structured, tight and focused, offering glimpses of what lies ahead . . . Yet its finesse and refinement are apparent in the finish. (August 5, 2009) |
 |
|
|
2006 Joseph Phelps Insignia Proprietary Red Wine (Napa Valley) Made in a dense, full-bodied, muscular style . . . The blackberry and cassis characteristics are accompanied by notions of damp earth, subtle oak, licorice, and forest floor. (December 31, 2008) |
|
|
|
2006 Joseph Phelps Backus Cabernet Sauvignon [This wine] is performing even better than it did from barrel last year. A dense ruby/purple hue is followed by scents of creosote, burning embers, black currants, cedar and spice box. Dense, rich, powerful and concentrated . . . (December 31, 2008) |
 |
|
|
2006 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley) Phelps basic Cabernet bottling is dry and elegant and classically balanced. It displays rich flavors of blackberries, black currants and cedar, with notes of violets and herbs. Through 2012. S.H. (November 2009) |
|
|
|
2006 Ovation Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast) Fresh and vibrant, with lively acidity and snappy pear, apple and citrus shadings. Still a touch crisp and flinty in a good way, this is full-bodied and ends with a long, clean finish. (August 5, 2009) |
 |
|
|
2007 Freestone Vineyards Chardonnay Inviting aromas of wet stone and lemon. Golden apple and citrus, with very firm structure, mouthwatering acidity and a glint of minerality. Fabulous concentration and balance, and while enjoyable now, it has a long future ahead of it. (September 2009) |
 |
|
|
2007 Ovation Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast) Smoky, musky aromas of pineapple, nectarine and minerals. Dense and thick but with a firm edge of acidity framing the flavors of peach, nectarine, pineapple and spices. Fruit-driven and quite fresh, and long on the aftertaste. (May-June 2009) |
|
|
| December 31, 2008 |
|
2007 Freestone Vineyards Pinot Noir, Pastorale Vineyard 2007 Freestone Vineyards Pinot Noir, Quarter Moon Vineyard |
